I’m still very happy with the photos from the trip to Florida but I found myself using the 16mm and 23mm lenses more. is an exceptionally sharp lens, making it a great option for capturing high-quality images with great detail and clarity. lens is sharper and that can throw off the eye when trying to look at micro contrast and contrast, especially when it’s this close. don’t match the performance of mine, I get much better edge and center sharpness than yours seems to.

lens is ideal for street, landscape, portrait and everyday photography, making it some of the best travel gearto have on hand. If you only ever use autofocus, you could even pop a UV filter on and tape up the focus ring and get even more protection. R is a fast ‘normal’ prime for Fujifilm’s X system that behaves much like the classic 50mm lenses which used to be supplied with 35mm film SLRs. As with every other owner of this lens, I cannot quite put down in words what makes the Fujifilm 35mm f/1.Looks like the tension problem is pretty common for this lens – all three of the units that I used had this issue. Some reviews like the Lenstrip one agree with your findings, though of the many many reviews I have read the majority state the 1. However, when moving onto Fujifilm, I wanted something a little wider and that’s why I ended up settling on the 23mm f/2 for travel photography. only loses in the autofocus department, and softness in the corners (which, for a lens with this sort of aperture is expected anyway.

There is no visible distortion with this lens, and you can focus super close up without seeing the distortion that can make macro photographyso tricky. and on paper, it’s certainly up to snuff: other than a cheaper build quality (plastic vs metal) and a slower aperture, you could even make the case that it’s a better lens. In-depth testing Latest Camera Reviews Beyond the studio tests Feature Articles and Videos see how we see Sample Galleries real world performance Field Test Videos Throwback Thursday Classic Cameras from Days Past What's that Noise? For my personal photography, like when I’m trying to make art rather than take a photo of a backyard bbq, I like the 35mm f1.It seems like this is a trick lens designers are using to generate really nice looking focus falloff, because I’ve noticed my good falloff lenses do this exact same thing, like the Voigtlander 35mm f1.

It has a compact construction, small size and half the amount of glass when compared to full-frame lenses (with the lens being only designed for APS-C sensors).you may want to consider using a lens hood or other flare prevention techniques, such as shooting from different angles. I recognize that Fuji might release a higher resolution camera in the future, but my tests will still have to be done with the same X-T1 to stay consistent. Meanwhile, the XF 35mm f/2 shows some edge softness at f/2, but even here the lens shows better resolution than the f/1. At this 1m focus distance, the XF 35mm f/2 is showing to be the sharper lens across the frame while maintaining similar bokeh to its older brother.

These lenses really don’t flare much at all as long as you keep them clean and don’t use UV filters. There is a little bit of rainbow flare visible when shooting straight into the sun at large apertures, but it is not bad.

You’ll also notice the 35mm f2 takes advantage of the mirrorless flange distance more than the 35mm f1. So if you’re hiking in the forest and get caught in a rainfall, you can just keep shooting with the camera as long as it’s weather-sealed.