Green Oil's wet lube is fully biodegradable and is made from 100% natural ingredients. To increase durability and the length of time between applications, this wet lube contains N-Toc, a special refined plant extract that has similar properties to Teflon. Green Oil claims it lasts over 200 kilometres on the chain per application, depending on the conditions. Regular, correct application of lube is an important process to ensure the smooth and efficient running of your bike.

My plan was to see how far I could ride before chain noise became noticeable. After 60 miles, all was well. All was well after 100 miles too. It was only when I got to 200 miles (not, I had better point out, all on the same ride) that it dawned on me that I was never going to get a grinding chain, because Smoove doesn't work like that. Doing so is a challenge, though. When you ride in wet or dirty conditions, your front wheel sprays huge amounts of contaminants onto your chain (although good mudguards can mitigate the effects to a degree). From there, the only way to reset the balance is to clean your drivetrain thoroughly. On review, we found that our chain remained rust-free after our 'garden hose test' that we used to replicate wet weather. A ride in the rain followed and the chain again showed no signs of rust or stiff links. We also liked that, unlike some wet lubes, Green Oil didn't attract too much dirt and grime that can really wear the drivetrain. Wax doesn't seem to last as long in Winter as I'd like, but I've gotten used to wiping off and re-waxing my chain after rides (not before) and leaving it to dry overnight. I've not stretched to two-chains per bike, though technically there'd be no real hassle involved. Taking a chain off takes seconds these days, and shaking it clean in a bottle of solvent a few minutes. Ditto dipping it in wax and hanging it.In dry, spring and summer conditions you want to use a lighter lubricant, normally a wax-based ‘dry’ lube. Dry lubes are much cleaner to use and attract less dirt build-up even with repeated applications. This makes them much better in dry or dusty conditions, especially off-road or on gravel. Step 1 > Apply SMOOVE to a clean dry chain (do not use white spirit or petrol to clean as a residue is left behind. A strong degreaser is required such as SMOOVE Prep You've applied too much SMOOVE. Probably by reapplying too soon or over-applying in the first instance. Wipe away the excess gloop very lightly with a dry cloth and keep riding. It will soon bed in.

Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better. If you are seeing orange rusty colour seeping from within your chain after washing, it's because you did not work SMOOVE in well enough in the first instance and/or didn't allow it to set thoroughly enough. How often you need to lube your chain depends on how frequently you ride your bike and the conditions in which you ride it. You can source the ingredients separately yourself, but ZFC says that commercial blends such as Molten Speed Wax use more highly refined paraffin wax than what is normally available to consumers, for optimum performance and cleanliness. Most of the products listed are supported by dedicated cleaners from the respective manufacturers which helps. We would recommend removing the chain from the bike for cleaning. If you haven't done it before it may mean learning a new job and investing in some chain link removal pliers, these do just look like a small pair of pliers and undo a chain's connector link. A chain can be removed in a few seconds, it's a simple job.

I’m wondering how well this works. I’d have to buy a chain cleaning contraption as I haven’t owned one in ages. Or, spray it with degreaser and scrub with an old towel and toothbrush? Frankly, it sounds like a big mess.

However, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to chain lubes – with countless brands offering a range of different types of lube and formulas – so finding the best chain oil isn’t always easy. If you’re after the fastest, most efficient drivetrain possible, immersive waxing is currently king. Look around any professional race or time trial and you’re bound to spot more than a few waxed chains.

Dry lube comes out of the bottle wet, commonly a fast-flowing liquid but once it dries it leaves a wax film on the chain. It’s this wax that provides the necessary lubrication, the liquid is simply the carrier for the wax.