The Tyranids are a faction that is known for their biomorphs and organic look. Sotek Green would be great for painting the carapace, chitin and other organic parts of the models. I did an Army Painter Strong Tone wash over the armor, weapon parts, and disc parts that were still silver, then based with sand and blue tufts from Gamers Grass. Bring up the cloaks with coats of Xereus Purple, re-darkening some of the recesses on the front of the shoulders with Naggaroth. While rules support for these craftworlds are more limited, Psychic Awakening: Phoenix Risingintroduced rules for creating custom craftworlds that opened the gates for players who felt more like creating their own designs rather than adopting one of the more established schemes created by Games Workshop. The nature of the Eldar means that there really aren’t any colors or patterns that are “off-limits,” so players are really free to let their imaginations run wild if they want to create their own schemes, or if they want something a bit more obscure, there are a number of lesser craftworlds and exodite forces that you can choose to paint for your army. In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint well, everything, with multiple schemes and techniques. In today’s article we’re looking at the death mask-clad faces of the Age of Sigmar franchise, the Stormcast Eternals.

Once the main colours are done, I finish up the greens. Most of the green is started from a couple of thin coats of Moot Green. For cables and orbs I then wash towards the connection points with Biel Tan Green which is left to dry and then another coat of thinned Moot Green is used to blend the edges away from where the shade has dried. If you wish to highlight this a little further, a mix of Moot Green and Yriel Yellow in a 3:1 ratio works well. In this picture, the armor has been painted with the enamel washes but the shield has not. You can see how much more green the armor is and how much more of a vibrant and natural tone the enamels brought to the scheme. It’s a great tool to have in the tool box. Overall I’m very happy with the Necron lads I’ve finished up to this point, and I’m eager to paint the rest of the box! I gradually mixed a bit more of the next colour into the highlights typically in one or two steps, be careful to leave your self enough space to get them all in there as it is very easy to either entirely obscure the previous layer or create a odd looking transition. Sorry about the blurry picture, but it should give you the idea of where I place the Karak Stone, otherwise these are just some basic highlights.

Mata Nui by BuffaloChicken

Next up I did a basecoat of Ultramarines Blue Contrast Paint to lay down the base color. Swiftblade recommended I use Macragge Blue but I didn’t have any of that sitting around and this is basically the same shade. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo

It’s much the same process for infantry, however with the red mostly done in a bulk airbrushing session there really isn’t much left to do once you’ve pin washed and edge highlighted I’m planning to hit the rest of the Stormcast half of the box in much the same scheme, so stay tuned. I started by painting the flesh with Citadel The Fang. I then washed the model – the top was washed with Drakenhof NIghtshade and the bottom was washed with Druchii Violet to give it more of a purple hue. I then began painted the flesh with lighter layers, painting the lower body with a mix of white and Xereus Purple and working up on the upper body with mixes of Reaper Snow Shadow and The Fang. The general process I’m using for this is basecoat -> shade -> highlight with the original basecoat -> highlight with lighter shades. I am also curious if anyone has used GW's Lupercal Green as a base followed by SoH Green and then highlight with something else like Kabalite or Sybarite. Perhaps using some Coelia Greenshade either over it or as a recess shade.

Black

Contrast Aethermatic Blue is almost in the Glaze range when it goes over anything other than Greyseer or Wraithbone so here I did a layer of Greyseer first and then two coats of Contrast Aethermatic Blue for a very nice teal. With the Old Ones defeated and the universe in disarray, the Silent King at last turned their weapons on the C’Tan, shattering and enslaving them in an act of revenge for stealing the souls of the Necrontyr. With his work done, the Necrons retreated to a deep slumber, staying dormant for more than 60 million years as the Enslavers eventually starved off and the galaxy evolved. Meanwhile Szarekh, the silent king, freed his people from the mental programming that bound them to his will and fled the galaxy, looking for penance in the dark space between galaxies. I often quite enjoy this step in a scheme, when the most time consuming parts are done and you get the opportunity to just do a flurry of small highlights all over the place and see lots of impact from little effort. I came across this curious recipe for painting the Sons of Horus and was just curious if anyone has tried it.

Turns out Agrellan Earth is much easier to use when the British Weather decides to be nice for a weekend.My method of painting Necrons is simple. It’s made up of a few simple steps that when added together looks great. Credit: ZuultheCat The teal bits are very simple: 2 base coats of Sotek Green to get a solid base coat. Once this is dry, load up some Temple Guard Blue on a small dry brush and get most of the paint off, like you’re going to drybrush. Stab the brush directly onto the sotek green parts, breaking up the solid blue base coat. Once this dries, simply glaze over the teal parts with an undiluted coat of Lamenter’s Yellow. If you don’t have any of that long-lost liquid gold, you can mix up Iyanden Yellow contrast paint with Contrast Medium or just make your own Lamenter’s Yellow. The Fall of Damnos, Dead Men Walking, and The World Engine all show Necrons as antagonists, but do so in a strong way, with Dead Men Walking considered the strongest of the bunch.