If this is too simple for your taste, highlight with Shining Silver before the wash. This way, you can add crisp details, without losing too much of the dark tone. I’m using Liquitex heavy body acrylics with a wet palette made from tupperware/paper towel/parchment paper.

Our shading is done with Agrax Earthshade. You could make a case for Carroburg Crimson here, but the darker shade of brown helps make the red stand out. This is one where I am particular – PSYCHE I’M TOTALLY NOT. I use Army Painter Banshee Brown for most of the teeth and claws now because I found it and I like it. I am sure there are other off white or bone type colors, but I like this one. When I started painting I was using standard white, so there’s a mix of white and off white in my army, which is what I like anyway. I wash them with a nice Agrax and then highlight with some more white or Banshee brown. Nothing crazy. I use the same Banshee brown for any exposed bone as well. For this you will need a white, along with a transparent red, orange and yellow. In my case I used VGA Gory Red, VGC Orange Fire and Golden High Flow Acrylics Hansa Yellow Medium. While a variety of colors will work well for this as long as they thin well to a transparent state (So most reds, yellows, and oranges), I’d avoid any colors that aren’t full saturation. I’ve tried this with Carroburg Crimson as the red, but using colors that aren’t as bright muddies the effect greatly. A good first impression, but let’s take a look at this in a direct comparison between old and new. I primed this test model at home with a coat of Corax White spray, which is a matt light grey primer. On the left side of the model, I apply the old Citadel Shade paints and on the right side the new versions. After everything is dry, here is the result:I say lighter skin tones because with darker skin, it tends to work better to start with the brown color. If you start with brown and highlight up by mixing in Cadian Fleshtone, you’ll get a nice light-ish warm brown tone. You can also use white to mix in as a highlight. I would not recommend using red or yellow alone as highlights. Red is a strong color and will make things red if used alone, and not much yellow works its way into highlights because most ambient light has a cold, whitish hue, which we’ll go into more detail on later.

GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) For these and the Thousand Sons I matched the paint schemes in the How to Paint Citadel Miniatures book. Famed for the 4 step paint process, these were fun. Warpaint Inks from The Army Painter provide excellent value. They contain 18 ml for a RRP of 2,75 Euro as opposed to 12 ml for 3,20 Euro Games Workshop is asking for their Shades. So you get 50% more wash but pay less – fantastic. The RRP of the Ink set is 17,50 Euro, so it offers a nice additional discount than buying the inks individually. Most of them are very close matches to the old Citadel Washes, which makes switching very easy. The only thing I’m missing is a proper flesh ink, a reddish brown similar to the old Ogryn Flesh wash or the new Reikland Fleshshade. I think The Army Painter has really dropped the ball here. In the included painting guide they suggest Soft Tone Ink for flesh, but this is more of a sepia shade and makes your skin look yellowish. Airbrush the center of the coil with white. ( VMA White here.) The other steps are pretty forgiving, but it’s good to be careful here and work gradually so you don’t accidentally go too far.In our How to Paint Everything Series we look at how to paint well, everything, with a look at different methods and techniques. In this article we’re looking at how to paint battle damage, from cuts and bruises to impact craters and frag scarring. For my Great Unclean One there was a layer of fatty tissue around a big wound. I took a chance and painted the Poisonous Cloud which is a very light yellow-green and washed with the Carroburg Crimson (or maybe it was the Fleshshade. I should write things down). The result was a very good looking fatty-pus layer, or at least I think it came out well. I also dry brushed some of the Dechala Lilac around the wound to give it a bit of rot and bruising look. The steel is a new recipe for me using Scale 75 Eclipse Grey > Scale 75 Anthracite Grey > Scale 75 Behring Blue > GW Fenrisian Grey > Scale 75 White Burnt Umber looks close to Mournfang Brown, and the model has a basecoat of Unbleached Titanium which is close to Screaming Skull best I can tell. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf