This would be a great and unique present for Star Wars fan! It can be hung on the wall and would make a great feature to any room. It is also a great talking point at parties etc.... SPECS These parts were secured with 2-part epoxy along with various washers, spacers, and pushpins. We even took the head from a kazoo that had an intricate and functional-looking fan pattern.

I like to use automotive primier on this rotocast resin. It bonds extremely well, and is not runny. If I can find a can I will post pix,any car store should carry it ( Pep Boys etc ). I suggest at least TWO even light coats,before final paint is applied.

Han Solo in Carbonite 62 Cm Or Life Size 3D Print Model

Once the bondo has dried (15 minutes), you can remove the part from the RTV mold and being the process again – seven more times to be exact! Life Size Prop/ Replica of Han Solo (Harrison Ford) frozen in Carbonite from the classic movie Star Wars. The 1st thing I like to do in prepping my Han is to wash the hands with warm water and soap. I've had to apply a good amount of mold release to these areas,washing helps the paint adhere better. Once this is done give those hands a nice LIGHT sanding. To properly line up the panels to the sides, a template is made from foam core and cut to the exact shape and size as our panels. The remaining of the Carbonite texture is created with PVA Wood Glue (AKA Elmer’s Glue). The temperatures had dropped so dramatically, I built a plastic tent and employed the help of a space heater to allow the glue to dry at a normal temperature.

Here you can see the outer areas of the HIC are filled using silicone caulking. Don't worry if you have big gaps to fill, the silicone is awesome for sealing these areas up. Go slow when applying, and use a rubber glove. Makes life a lot easier. The box included a thin frame around the edge and small electric router, rounded the edge all around.If i were to do it again, I would have glued the front edge panels down, as well as screw them. I was in a rush the first time and didn’t bother gluing them and they kept popping up, which added quite a few hours of time to the build chasing gaps and filling them with bondo. The HIC is an eye catching prop, you don't want to half ass it and have regrets. Take your time and do it the right way, this will eliminate having to redo things, and just makes life easier. The LEDs that drive the large green light and the digit lights are embedded in boxes made from foam core. The inside of the boxes are lined with aluminum tape to help diffuse and bounce the light inside. The panels also include these aluminum clips. A sheet of aluminum from the hardware store is a low-cost rendition of these and once they’re folded, they can easily be fixed to the panel with a screw.

Here is the info regarding the 3 sections. I would recommend screwing the sections down 1st, before you start with the bondo. Make sure the HIC is secure and in the correct position. ( once you start the bondo process it's a pain to move him around ). You can also use caulking if you so desire,use what you have. I'm going to try and get some pix posted this weekend to help with this thread. I wanted to get a basic tutorial going so folks can get things rolling.The LEDs are powered by a 12v DC Reg. 1A Switch – meaning they simply get plugged into the wall for power. For this setup, you can drive dozens of LEDs, however for the project I’ll use around 10. They required a tiny bit of sanding on one corner but fit like a glove. I just need to finish the inside with a little sanding. Once that's done I can install these and add a little filler to the gaps. I also trimmed the ice cube tray and test fit it into place. These details were added using Elmer's Wood Glue, as you can see it really " pops" when it's primed ( please note : final color has not been applied at this step )