A simple question that constantly finds itself being asked in Fuji Forum after Fuji Forum is just this; which lens should I get? As many of you know, Fuji does wonders with their firmware updates, and they’ve really transformed this lens over the years. R is by no means a slouch of a lens; if you decide to go with this lens you will end up with better overall low light performance, better image stabilization performance with the X-H1 (and likely any future X-Series cameras with IBIS), and shallower depth of field for that creamy bokeh that portrait photographers love so much. After High School I ended up going to school for Web Design and Interactive Media, and in the course of earning my Associates Degree I took a few photography classes and purchased my first DSLR camera.

I’m going to tell you about the pros and cons, show you a bunch of examples shot on each lens, and also which one I’d keep if I could only keep one. All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2024 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved. Fast forward a couple of months: my DSLR equipment was going on sale and I started replacing my system with Fujifilm components. I tried the 35mm f2, and while it’s a high quality, very sharp and snappy lens, the light and transition to the bokeh feel a little too “perfect” (clinical? While this lens will never replace a short telephoto with macro capabilities, it worked well for us when taking contextual shots within bustling night markets.I find this look so pleasant, so satisfying that I end up grabbing this lens more than any other Fujifilm lens. For example, here’s a photo from a dimly lit restaurant in the countryside in Tuscany, Italy: Photo taken with the Fujifilm XF 35mm f1. The lighting was difficult because there were a lot of shadows, and some areas where it was bright from a sky window. is not a dedicated macro lens, primarily due to its minimum focusing distance and magnification capabilities.

I decided to change from Pentax to change to a smaller package for travelling, city and steetshooting. That’s when summer is at its best, while it’s still fresh and present in your memories, while clumps of grass still cling to your shoes, while grains of sand grind away in the darkest corners of your pockets.

The autofocus just isn’t fast enough, and in low light you might need several tries to get it to lock of properly (or switch to manual focus). So in terms of actual advantage I would give it to the F2 mode, but in the real world, I would consider this a draw. The images below were captured during various outings to see how the lens would react in different lighting conditions, and it never let me down once. R. The photos are edited in Lightroom or Capture One Express and I have used Fujifilm film simulations such as Velvia, Acros, and Classic Chrome.

This is the first lens that got me seriously hooked on the X Series system, and to this day, I never get tired of it. I haven’t personally used the XC version, but most reviews say that the two are very comparable in terms of image quality.Fuji’s seemingly little-known lens-tuning strategy of centre-sharpness at wide apertures, and edge to edge sharpness at smaller ones is especially apparent with this lens. If you don’t need the fast autofocus and can spend more time with each shot, then it’s a great option. This makes it well-suited for various genres of photography, including portraits, street photography, and documentary photography. However, in good light, the 35mm F2 is much better at tracking a moving subject when used on the same body as the 35mm F1. does have some field curvature so the edges and corners will appear softer if you’re shooting a flat surface.