There are sections on the usefulness and frugality of breadcrumbs, whether black olive crumbs to serve with everything, impromptu puddings like peaches in wine with bay leaves, pea dishes galore, superb versions of classics like chocolate St Emilion and pommes Anna, big dishes to serve a few such as marinated chicken with roast pumpkin salad, and essentials like a wild garlic purée. Concocted by an ex Fat Duck chef, the first flavour will be Go Shorty It’s Your Birthday, starring shortbread biscuit, sponge cake, strawberry sauce and hundreds and thousands. Had these books not been written, much might not have seen the light of day, such as cabbie claw, a soup of cod cooked in horseradish and parsley, and served with an egg sauce. Arabella Boxer, who was an early champion of British and seasonal cooking, helped tear up the rigours of publishing with her extraordinary two-volume set of First Slice Your Cookbook, then, A Second Slice.

The key to success, she says, is to learn to trust your instincts, and her recipe instructions are refreshingly free of bossiness – she actively encourages experimentation. While the dishes Jeremy cooks change daily depending on the seasons, there are a few things on the menu he has become famous for. In the 30s came Florence White’s Good Things in England, who championed British food and collected many, often eccentric recipes dating as far back as the 14th century. The company required for almond tart, mostly inspired by my dad, it must be said, is a jug of custard, warm or chilled, Jersey cream, whipped cream and ice cream.As walls were being pulled down and boundaries blurred and as the classics lost their grip, restaurateurs started speaking of menus inspired by Elizabeth David. There’s a reasonably chunky introduction that skips and hops briefly through Lee’s background and culinary career as well as some thoughts on his approach to food and cooking in general. A beautifully written instant classic that is every bit as exuberant and delicious as the man himself! Keeping an eye on your supply chain is a full-time job, so we tend to look to a very good greengrocer who knows where to get things like the best lemons from Sicily,’ he explains. Put the oil into the cast-iron pan, lay the pork chop on top and let cook undisturbed until deep mahogany in colour, roughly 8-10 minutes.

Were I to choose, eek, then, roast leg of pork with bitter leaves, onions and sage might be one, another might be steamed kid pudding and probably that good friend, a smoked eel sandwich. It has had various owners over the years – including a partnership between Marco Pierre White and Damien Hirst from 1996-2007 – but the restaurant is now in the hands of Sam and Eddie Hart, who are behind the immensely successful Barrafina. As anyone who has seen him laugh and charm his way through the room at Quo Vadis would expect, Lee is as generous in prose as he is when talking about the book, heaping praise on the close team who helped bring it all together.For all ebook purchases, you will be prompted to create an account or login with your existing HarperCollins username and password. Loved by the London food world since making his mark at Terence Conran’s Blueprint Cafe, it seems like an oversight that Lee has not published a cookbook until now. Carefully lift the sardines and set them skin side up on the onion, then place the egg on the sardines – et voilà.

Methods are as well written as you might expect of such a well experienced chef and are as detailed as they need to be and easy to follow. To access your ebook(s) after purchasing, you can download the free Glose app or read instantly on your browser by logging into Glose.Preheat the oven to 180°C and place a tray beneath the rack on which the tart will be cooked to catch any dripping butter.

There’s a kind of effortless poetry on every page that’s utterly delightful and doesn’t feel in the slightest bit forced. Lee hastens to add that at least it didn’t take 20 years to put together, like Alan Davidson’s Oxford Companion to Food. Since the first Hoppers launched in Soho in 2015, it’s helped to put Sri Lankan cooking on the radar of London’s fashionable restaurant-goers. The chop goes wonderfully with so much, from olive oil, mash or potato and celeriac gratin to green beans, asparagus, peas, courgettes, Jerusalem artichokes or chicory. The book is arranged with a chef’s eye for ingredients, and favourite things to eat throughout the seasons, rather than in courses or meals.Marcella Hazan lit up both sides of the Atlantic with her Classic Italian cookbooks and blew every cliché of Italian cooking to smithereens. Caroline Conran’s beautiful editing of four seminal chefs, Michel Guérard, Roger Vergé and Jean and Pierre Troisgros, finally loosened the tired grip of France’s haute cuisine.