Having been a devout fan of the much hyped edp (which is more of a rosey benzoin tea scent), I felt like I had to get this one to complete the set, if not to experience another one of Roudnitska’s creations. Although "Habit Rouge" and "Noir" use different palettes of aromas, the three have in common that they radiate something slightly aristocratic, almost decadent, but without the force or penetrance of many an oppressive oriental. I bought it now on the Canary Islands, the timelessly beautiful bottle, after I couldn't get it anywhere in Germany before my departure. Therefore now a comment, which is coined by Atlantic noise and by palm leaves wobbling in the sun. In wet and cold Germany it might have been different. Overall, despite its popular reputation as a lemony fragrance, Moustache edt is anything but. In fact, it’s predominantly a soft and gentlemanly lavender for most of its life, if not for the first half hour where nearly all of the magic happens. From the massive blast of honeyed lemon, to the strange funk, soft violet and beautiful lavender drydown, it’s quite a journey to take in such a short period of time; yet frankly an absolute joy to experience. Kind of like life.

So who is "Moustache" the right scent for? In any case, you shouldn't expect a loud market crier who also casts a spell over the environment with his uniqueness. Even a fragrance that covers most of theLooking at the review score this should be 100% positive currently since the only neutrals are due to to simply being confused between the retro-citrus EDT which this isn't and it deserves to be reviewed on it's own merits.

Rochas Moustache Original 1949 (2018) obviously isn't, but I'm sure everyone who knows the actual original Rochas Moustache (1949) saw that coming, so it's almost a given. In reality, this fragrance is just a reformulation of the short-lived eau de toilette re-issue released in the 90's, that replaced the eau de toilette concentrée and gutted it of animalic musks, sitting somewhere between that stiffer version and the more airy eau de cologne version with the blue label that died long before it. Here in Moustache Original 1949, what little animalic component remained has been scrubbed even further and replaced with a synthetic proxy, offering little of the funk that contrasted with the citrus to create one of the most notoriously musty openings in all of masculine perfumery. I guess for modern noses used to their showergel masculines and rose water feminine perfumes carried by laundry musks, linalool, and Frankensteined patchouli free of any earth, this suits best. However, if you were expecting a more faithful re-creation of the original eau de cologne but within IFRA regulatory guidelines, you won't find it here, although that isn't to say what's here isn't actually good. What enthusiasts will find here in Moustache Original 1949 is akin to what Jacques Fath did with Green Water (1947) when creating Fath's Essentials: Green Water (2016), cloning their older work with gas chromatography and artistic license to then reshape it into something more marketable for today. In both cases the new version fondly echoed the old version, but was its own affair.Of course this is not really possible, because Moustache from 1949 was also reworked several times, tamed (the original version is said to have been more animalistic than the variant in the angular matt bottle with the unambiguous dark yellow liquid): there is no real reference. In addition, even the last version of Moustache available on the market has usually been on the lid for several years, which means that an ageing process with scent can no longer be ruled out. This also seems to be the case with my moustache water from the early 2000s. Nevertheless, a comparison with caution and limited validity is possible in my opinion. As I already wrote in my statement, the heart note - to my mind - is very similar to the heart note of Givenchy's "Gentlemen Only" from 2013, both of which are made mostly of cedar, but have completely different accompanying fabrics around them. While Givenchy's vetiver gives the fragrance a rather pungent wood note, the rose used in "Moustache" makes it rounder and softer. It's as if you were smelling the same piece of wood, but with "Moustache" you smell it from a greater distance, which makes the impression less oppressive but more coherent. The scent of cedar is still part of the base note for a while, but the heart note leaves the skin after about 1.5 - 2 hours. Style or nothing! What matters is cutting a fine figure, the famous beautiful drape of the clothes. Rochas invented the basque, designed the mermaid evening gown, liberated women’s bodies with his ¾ coats and square shoulders, and created the Bird dress inspired by the artists of his day. Timeless classics that the couturier reinvented for every season. I have reached for Moustache EDP more than any other fragrance over these colder months even though I already have a trio of Ferragamo Uomo Signature,

The peoples of Europe still suspected each other and one was still far away from the European Coal and Steel Community or even a European Union. The biggest noticeable difference between this and any incarnation of Moustache is the almost complete absence of any lime note, which before was sorta just implied by the interplay of civet and oakmoss with the sour natural bergamot being used up top with the lemon. Now, we see vacuum-distilled bergamot essence in place of full unfiltered bergamot oil, mixed with something that produces a candied sort of lemon effect you see in fragrances like Mancera Cedrat Boise (2011), telling me the days of sharp citrus chypres old heads love are truly dead if this lemon drop is the best that can be done for the opening of Moustache. Yet, there is hope, because the star player of the heart, being that dry lavender and geranium tandem which so defined many a mid-century masculine is mostly intact here. Gone however are any flanking floral support notes, including rose and jasmine indoles, meaning that rotting fruit vibe which defined many a Roudnitska work is missing here. In their place, a vacuous filler of various ionones and acetates leaving the impression of violet leaf and orange blossom emerge, lending a slight sweet roundness the benzoin of the old Moustache used to provide. Finally, the payoff arrives, and you get an IFRA-approved oakmoss chypre base, with real oakmoss (albeit a sliver), labdanum, some patchouli, and a modicum of civetone. The skin scent is the best part, lasting about six hours and smelling dapper, good for spring and summer casual use. This is something I think vintage lovers will enjoy if they like stuff such as Eau de Rochas Homme (1993), and it can serve in all the same instances as well. If there's one thing you can't blame "Moustache" for, it's probably its excellent pricing policy or the grandiose relationship between high-quality fragrance, bottle size and price.The price performance I find even more outstanding, usually you have to reformulate the BUNKERN, because Rochas as with the "Rochas Man" but like once. In its density and indulgence, this Rochas reminds me of the above mentioned Guerlain classics and Tom Ford's "Noir". A little fruity by a really pleasant round, harmonious, almost creamy, unbitter mandarin, also floral with clear rose, which is beautifully waxy and also powdery framed by benzoin. The fragrance must certainly be placed in the context of 1949, when Thérèsa and Edmond Roudnitska created the original fragrance. As far as I know in Grasse. Opening with a good pinch of pink pepper, the fragrance does not convey the tangerine as prominently and sweetly as Chanel's "Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême", but I think I can at least imagine that it tames and tames the scent of pepper a little. Other scents, which also carry the pink pepper in the top note, seem much stronger to me. All in all, the top note lasts only a few minutes, but then merges relatively unnoticed into the heart note and should therefore not disturb anyone. In the beginning Rochas was Mr Marcel Rochas. “Every current event is an excuse for me to create,” he once said. The woman, the era, the intuition… were all just right. An eye kept on a fast-changing world to accelerate the movement. This was the almost obsessional quest of the man who freed fashion from convention in the early 20th century, transforming it into a lesson in radiance and beauty for the next 30 years.

Yes, I have (frighteningly) commented and also tested very little in the last year, because many newcomers simply don't give me anything except the feeling of repeatedly smelling something comparable, similar or even identicalJust like e.g. "Bentley for Men Intense" or "Encre Noire" you get a high quality fragrance with a more than great price tag, which makes you wonder how much extra charge the company name alone might cost some other brands. This 2018 recreation of Moustache Original 1949 is indeed a musty lemon citrus opening that by description is accurate but doesn't really explain the experience. It was the third wear that I felt the magic, the lemon citrus opening was surprisingly alluring and I kept adding sprays over a few hours to fully experience it from the top again, and again. It settles into a comfy patchouli, moss, and musk base which is nice as well. As the top musty brightness settles down this could work in the office but I don't plan on doing so. It's a great around the house/yard classic citrus for me and I plan to reach for it plenty over the spring and summer particularly.