The green is the part that takes the longest on my models. For this, I use the following paints in successive, very thin layers, building up the intensity through successive layers : Caliban Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow and finally Skull White. Make sure you let each layer dry before moving onto the new one. With the Old Ones defeated and the universe in disarray, the Silent King at last turned their weapons on the C’Tan, shattering and enslaving them in an act of revenge for stealing the souls of the Necrontyr. With his work done, the Necrons retreated to a deep slumber, staying dormant for more than 60 million years as the Enslavers eventually starved off and the galaxy evolved. Meanwhile Szarekh, the silent king, freed his people from the mental programming that bound them to his will and fled the galaxy, looking for penance in the dark space between galaxies. Decades passed and Luther remained in charge of the Dark Angels' garrison force on Caliban. He and the Astartes under his command were never recalled by his primarch to combat duty in the Great Crusade. As Jonson's fame spread throughout the galaxy and reports of his great deeds and prowess in battle reached the I st Legion's homeworld, Luther felt robbed of his share of the glory. He wanted the fame and recognition that he felt he deserved as Jonson's equal and mentor.

However it really surprised me that it was a little bit different to work with than it’s matte brother. It really needs constant water to apply well. More so than the other paints. Now, with more time to muse on it I wonder if the heater I have on during winter is drying out my apartment and causing some of the paints to lose moisture a hell of a lot faster. I’m keen to try out instar’s Water+ to see if this effects the drying time. On the plus side, it goes on damn thin when thinned with water. You can do a 3rd layer with ease if needed after the wash, which I would say you will be doing if you go with this green. Food for thought I guess. Necrons: The cold, otherworldly nature of the Necrons is well-suited to the eerie, otherworldly qualities of Caliban Green. Its shadowy, mysterious tones are like a glimpse into the void, evoking the ancient, eldritch power of these ancient warriors. The Dark Angels homeworld coming apart during the final confrontation between Primarch Lion El'Jonson and the Arch-Betrayer Luther.

Discussion

Drybrush the dirt with Steel Legion Drab followed by a lighter drybrush of Gorthor Brown (optional: do a final light drybrush of Ushabti Bone) So, whilst there are some minor differences in performance between Two Thin Coats paints and Citadel paints, that colour matching? Yeah, more or less spot on. Speaking of contrast before, here is my colour list. As you can see I used it a fair bit on the little bits as an experiment and hot damn it saved some time: As you can see above, I’ve also worked on the bases. A lot of Indomitus models have some scenic parts where their legs join the bases to hide the pegs for attachment. I’ve done brown or grey stone on the bases of my Necrons before, but always been vaguely disappointed in how it looks. I decided to change that up for these (and will update some of my other models down the line) and do a blue marble recipe I’ve recently been using on statues. This contrasts much more interestingly with both the silver Necrons and the yellow sand of the bases. The recipe is: Annnnd if you want raw speed? Contrast. Vertical strokes and prepare for a slightly splotchy outcome on large power armour panels.

Edge highlight the armor with Silver mixed with just enough Pure Copper to give it a hint of color. That then gets washed with Nuln Oil to darken it down, especially in the recesses, followed by a drybrush with Necron Compound on bits that are going to stay silver to complete it. I do this all now because when drybrushing such a large proportion of the model there’s a risk of getting some on other areas, which I’d rather be able to correct by re-applying the base than having to redo any edge highlighting. We would strongly recommend you give Two Thin Coats paints a go – grab one of the colour triads and try switching it with your usual recipe for a particular colour. See what you think.Well of course it is. It’s on the damn bottle. I’m including this guy for the sake of completion but I’m not going to rate it as: The Fall of Damnos, Dead Men Walking, and The World Engine all show Necrons as antagonists, but do so in a strong way, with Dead Men Walking considered the strongest of the bunch. Thin the Umber ink about 1:1 with water (If you use Wyldwood contrast, water will work fine for thinning, contrast medium is not necessary for this technique) and splotch it around somewhat randomly to give the armor a stained/dirty look.

Nuln oil… just smoosh Nuln oil on all the grey metal. Go to town with it in the recesses not already claimed by Contrast Warp Lightning. The final step on the necron themselves is to do the extreme edge highlights, I used a common colour for each of metallics and conventional paints to help tie them all together. The hexadecimal color code #00401f is a very dark shade of green-cyan. In the RGB color model #00401f is comprised of 0% red, 25.1% green and 12.16% blue. In the HSL color space #00401f has a hue of 149° (degrees), 100% saturation and 13% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 533.51 nm. Color Variations Once the drybrushing has dried, I make an almost glaze-like wash of Steel Legion Drab. This is applied across the surfaces of the blue, without letting it pool into the recesses. If anything you want thin areas of pooling on the surfaces as this will break up the big flat areas of blue later on without looking too blotchy, so long as you’ve thinned your paint enough. It might take a bit of practice but it’s worth getting right. Finally, I glaze the entire section with Lamenters Yellow (I bought up a big surplus but you could create a glaze using Iyanden Yellow Contrast and some Contrast Medium) which is thinned slightly. I’ve found that using straight from the pot can lead to some overly green sections, which isn’t what I’m looking for, so the thinning really helps to dilute some of that colour and turn it to the characteristic turquoise-esque colour.Some people prefer heavy Citadel Base-like paints that can be sloughed on in only a few coats. Others prefer thin, glaze-like paints that need to be applied in 100 layers. Two Thin Coats paints straddle this gap, committing to neither the ultra-heavy nor the extremely-light makeups you may find in other paints. http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. Caliban Green paint from Citadel Colours is a lush, verdant shade that truly captures the essence of a tropical paradise.

If you are looking to save time it’s worth remembering with stuff like this that even basic layering like this blends together very well on the table top. Even in close up shots kind of gets smoothed out when you have sharp contrasts like the recess colours and edge highlights going on. Things you realise in post production: The missing bit on his ankle. Fffff- Also I’m yes I’m reusing my insta posts… edition models deserve bright red weapon casings! Considering the age of this model, basecoat the area with my everlasting pot of Citadel Mechrite Red. If you don’t live in 2009, I think that Khorne Red is a decent substitute. Polished Gold layer and Reikland wash + Silver highlight Szarekhan Royal Warden Szarekhan Royal Warden NihilakhAs you can see on the before highlight stage the colour is different than the matte. It’s not as blue, it’s still good though! Once the main colours are done, I finish up the greens. Most of the green is started from a couple of thin coats of Moot Green. For cables and orbs I then wash towards the connection points with Biel Tan Green which is left to dry and then another coat of thinned Moot Green is used to blend the edges away from where the shade has dried. If you wish to highlight this a little further, a mix of Moot Green and Yriel Yellow in a 3:1 ratio works well. The tank and the turret were the biggest and most involved subassembly. I painted the turret separately gluing a piece of sprue to the inside to act as a holder. Step 3: I’m doing orange weapons. I do a few thin coats of Trollslayer Orange to start. Dot the eye, do the glowing parts of the gun and the cables. Duncan’s basic but beautifully executed style made the forbidding word of miniature painting accessible to more people than ever before. Using only a handful of colours and a few brushes, Duncan would deftly create masterfully-painted miniatures with ease – and would impart his knowledge to you as he did so.