The views expressed herein are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily those of BRISKODA or SKODA. The reason they are tight is they are stretch bolts. VW group use them on most of their suspension and brake components. With mating/sliding parts lightly lubricated with fresh brake fluid, insert the fluid seal in the caliper, slide the dust seal over the piston, offer the piston/seal to the caliper and work the piston around like stirring a bowl to help the dust seal pop into place. Applications: ball joints on Volkswagen LT, Transporter, Touran and rear caliper bolt on Passat and Audi A3.

RS PRO XZN M14 Spline Bit Socket, 1/2 in Drive, 100 mm

Most other large bolts are 200Nm+180° And should be replaced, as should the 90Nm+90° bolts for the rear carrier. It is all in the manual ...RTFM Edit. This is all from memory but it should cover it all. Don’t forget to clean up the pad carrier and lightly grease the slider pins.It's almost easier to cut the heads off the bolts with a Dremel, you'll go through a few blades but you should really be replacing the bolts anyway so it's no loss on bolts and it's easy to do, takes about 10-15mins to cut a head off. They are tightened by first a torque then a further angle to stretch them. (Like 70nm + 90degrees) it is what stops them undoing and they are single use. It says under each of these torque settings in the manual “replace after each removal” On my last service the mechanic noted that the rubber gasket around the piston on both rear callipers was worn and letting dirt in. I’ve bought 2 rebuild kits for the rears however I was just looking for clarification on how the pistons come out. I know on the fronts I can use compressed air to blow them out as I have done that before, however with the rears I’m unsure if they need winding out or blowing out… or some total other method. Hope this makes sense. size disc calipers are as follows..& I think the 340mm are the same as the same base caliper casting:- Halfords Advanced hand tools come with a Lifetime Guarantee. Should a Halfords Advanced hand tool fail while being used for the purpose and in the manner for which it was designed, it will be inspected and replaced.

Spline Sets | Spline Socket Bit Sets | Euro Car Parts

The new seals are an absolute pain to put in, the piston will need to be cleaned also but as mentioned above they will be scored or even pitted. Will get you by a few thousand but not a permanent solution. Buy new when can. It's a bloody nightmare and I needed a special spline drive m14. You dont have any room to get a long enough bar in. Its probably much easier in a garage up on a proper lift. then the ground wouldn't get in the way and you could use a longer bar. I think I am getting myself mixed up, you are correct there is no need to remove it, I was remembering when I had to change something else which required it's full removal! Hi Aj77, I had done much research on-line and found that most mechanics report that they always reuse these bolts. If you have access to an air tool, these carrier bolts do come out easilly. I'm pleased that I managed it with limited facilities and I did clean the threads and reused the bolts with a little blue Loctite on the threads and tightened them using a torque wrench. This was a simple but prolonged job which took me a week of daily spraying K2 Vulcan penetrating oil, My biggest worry was if the splines stripped, what do I do then, so I will keep your method in mind for when I do my own Octavia in the summer. The welder is a good way of applying heat exactly where you need it. Much better than a wimpy blowtorch.

All content is viewed and used at your own risk. We do not warrant the accuracy or reliability of any of the information. I know this question has been asked before but I can’t find any posts even using the search (could be me searching wrong) With piston still protruding fit the dust seal, a little red grease helps push it in the recess. Once in secure with the metal ring, easiest to keep the open end of the ring away from the bridge of the caliper. This often the hardest part as you need to push the ring into the recess, which is allows a fight as you try not to puncture the dust seal. Once seated pull the dust cover out so the outer end fits into the recess on the piston. Move the piston in and out to ensure the dust cover stays in place. Thanks mate. I've tried tapping the shaft through the caliper but it won't budge. I was a bit hesitant as I didn't want to damage anything and didn't know which way it was supposed to go anyway. I've even given it some heat. Do I need to give it a harder bash or even press it out? Also, I take it there's a spring somewhere on the shaft? The steel shaft sits in a brass bush which is fitted to the alloy calliper, I wouldn't imagine the bush is available as a spare part.