Worth noting that I already have boba u4t's and keycaps so I would prefer barebones, but am not opposed to prebuilds for extras (mainly concerning the Akko 5075b because I like the keycaps and switches that come with it). Also, I'm hoping to do a silicone mod because I like the end product. Cons: while I like the the bottom LEDs, the case itself looks more cheap being transparent (guess that's a personal preference), potential virus with the software (not sure if that's just a rumor?), NORTH facing LEDs

Other than that, you can clearly see some unpopulated headers for a battery, indicating together with the writing on the other side that the same PCB is used for the 5075B boards. While you could go through the effort of making it bluetooth compatible, there’s little price difference with the bluetooth version, which doesn’t make it worth it. However, the screwless assembly is its Achilles heel as the tabs have been known to break from either repeated disassembly or sheer carelessness. That’s enough risk to make modding a hardship, but I was able to make it work with enough care. Pulling this thing apart after just getting it in the mail was a fairly harrowing experience, but the plastic wasn’t worn yet to be overly fragile. It just needs more careful planning; it’s not one for experimentation. And while Akko is now slowly starting with QMK/VIA compatible PCBs with their recent announcement of a MOD007 refresh, as well as their daughter Monsgeek having the QMK/VIA compatible M1 (75%) and M2 (96%), the 5075S isn’t at the time of writing. You can still reprogram it in Akko’s own Cloud Driver software, it’s not with the same amount of flexibility.As for the keycap set, I felt like one of my G-MKY kits went best with the light blue color of the barebones kit. Then again, outside of the 3x 1U keys at the bottom (would’ve honestly preferred 2x 1.25u), Akko used a very standard layout otherwise. While cheap 104-key sets won’t be an option here, you can use most kits from the likes of YMDK, G-MKY and Akko themselves. After customizing my Keychron K2 V2, I thought I was done with keyboards. Perhaps I should’ve known that it wasn’t yet my endgame and I would soon yearn for more. It took almost half a year for me to feel the itch again, but I did eventually get the urge again to look for something new, especially one with a knob. I also wanted to try using a new switch since I wanted to see if there was something even more tactile than the Akko CS Jelly Blue switches I had on my Keychron. I ended up getting an Akko 5075S, and it turned out pretty amazing.

Akko 5075b Pros: Awesome side LEDs, good build quality/looks good, comes with some silicone premade, good switches/keycaps (although I probably won't use them right away), extra knob and PC plate This software supports the M1 HE, MG108, MG108W, MG75, MG75W, M1W Multi-mode, M7W Multi-mode, M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 Domestic Version. Note: M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 QMK International Versions could not be customized with the driver. The Akko 5075S is a 75% gasket-mount keyboard with a plastic body, polycarbonate plate, and screwless construction. There’s a barebones kit with a hotswappable board and a body that comes in four colors, Vintage White, Blue Ash (bluish light gray), Pale Dogwood (pink), and Starry Night (dark blue). I got the last one to match my GMK Blue Samurai (clone) keycaps. The lineup’s four colors are based on Pantone, thus the descriptive names. I got the Starry Night color to match it with Blue Samurai keycaps. While they’re not exactly the same shade of blue, they’re close enough that they seem to match nonetheless. If there’s any reason to buy a barebones kit, it’s having your choice of switches and keycaps to go with it.But with some prying later, I’m able to take the top plate off and reveal the internals of the keyboard. This first shows a polycarbonate plate held together by a total of twelve gaskets. After I took this off it shows an ABS plastic housing with some silicon dampening, a screwed in daughterboard for the USB-C port and a connector to the main PCB and the screwed-in transparent plastic on the sides. A small note when assembling is to first disconnect the daughterboard from the main PCB and watch out that you don’t drop the switch on the bottom, as this isn’t held together by anything but the PCB being on top of it.