Time for the wings. Here I’m just going to get away with drybrushing. I do progressively lighter mixes of Celestra Gray and Xereus Purple here, which helps give me a much more muted tone on the wings. Disclaimer** I will be eventually basing all of my Cursed City on 3D printed bases so the current bases are “temporary”… but if anyone asks, it’s snowing in the decaying city of Ulfenkarn. Contrary to what many pots of paint would have you believe, there is no single “skin tone”. The reason for this is because human skin is a complex, multilayered structure and derives its colour as a sum of its components, much of which is constantly in flux in life. Skin is translucent and “skin colour” is largely a combination of the colours present within the skin – the pigment melanin, red of blood and yellow of fat. If you have had the misfortune of seeing a corpse, then you can observe the sallow cast that develops – the loss of blood from the skin on death leads to a loss of ‘red’, leaving the melanin and fat behind. The steel is a new recipe for me using Scale 75 Eclipse Grey > Scale 75 Anthracite Grey > Scale 75 Behring Blue > GW Fenrisian Grey > Scale 75 White

In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint, well, everything! We look at the lore and heraldry around the models and talk about multiple techniques and methods for painting them. In today’s How to Paint Everything, we’re looking at how to paint the grim heroes of Warhammer Quest: The Cursed City.

The Citadel Colour paint range gets a truly blue Shade, which works wonderfully with colours such as Caledor Sky on the cloaks and capes of the Lumineth Realm-lords . Tau (at some point in the fluff anyway) have blue copper-based blood, and are hence various shades of blue. Green can be added in tiny amounts to desaturate the colour mix if it becomes too bright, counteracting the reds. Here is a list of Citadel Colours paints that can be used in combination with Rakarth Flesh to create different skin tones and effects on miniature models:

Spot detail on aprons with Blood for the Blood God – get a beat up brush, and just sort of smear it around Now I’ll just map out my previous techniques onto the parts of the model which repeat textures found earlier in my tutorials: Because I wanted my flagstones to look old and weathered, I gave them a little extra texture by taking a very small (3mm) and roughly textured stone, and rolling it gently around on the green stuff to create subtle, irregular indentations. The more pressure you apply, the rougher the flagstones will look. Following the basecoat, I go into my first shade. For my shade, I use Guilliman Flesh Contrast Paint thinned down about 2:1 with Contrast Medium . In retrospect, I think this left the shade a bit too light and I had to hit some areas an extra time, so a 1:1 mix would also probably work.The Tyranids are a race of highly-evolved alien creatures that are capable of adapting to almost any environment and situation. Rakarth Flesh would be a good choice for painting Tyranid models, as it would help to create a wide range of different skin tones and textures, depending on the specific subspecies of Tyranid being modelled. Place your base upside-down on the cork sheet and draw around it with a pen. Then carefully remove the excess cork from around the circle. There’s no need to use a knife for this - doing it by hand will result in a rougher texture, which is exactly what you want. Next you’ll need to keep removing small chunks of cork from your circular piece until you have a shape that you like. I’ve seen people using base clippers for this job, but I just roughly prised the chunks off with my thumbnail like a savage. You do you! Also, hang onto those cork crumbs for later. When you’re happy, superglue the cork to your base. Put some Contrast Talassar Blue in the channels on the splinter weapons to give it a nice glow effect Emma: A nice light green Shade with a hint of yellow, Kroak Green looks great over light greens, whites, yellows, and even cream colours. I loved using it on some Tree-Revenant’s spirit skin where I wanted more of a green hue over the pale teal, just to tie it into the forest tones used elsewhere. Try it over all manner of other greeny things – it’s also especially good for Nurgle miniatures. Mix in a little more Rakarth Flesh and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit