Bert Biscoe, a Cornish politician, historian and bard, suggested that Cornish people liked individualism. “The market in Cornwall for food tends to be focused on distinctive Cornish products. We’re very good at producing products like that. People like the expression of individualism rather than fast food.” In addition the Baker family – Steve, Stella and two of their sons – produce up to 2,000 pasties a week in a unit on the edge of town. Greggs might have struggled in Saltash because it is a rather crowded market. There are two other specialist pasty shops on the main drag, Fore Street. Greggs refused to discuss its foray into Cornwall. In a statement it said: “We confirm that following a thorough review, the Greggs at Saltash service station closed.” Greggs may have been hampered by its inability to describe its pasties as Cornish because the name is protected. Instead it sells a “beef and vegetable pasty” that includes carrots and peas – ingredients that horrify the Cornish pasty aficionados – and describes the product as its take on a West Country classic.

Among those to be found munching on a pasty in Saltash was Sharron Aston. “I was sitting at home watching the TV and suddenly thought I’d fancy a pasty. I won’t miss Greggs – I didn’t like their pastry much.” Melody Brooke-Simmonds said she ate one pasty a week. “I’d eat more if I wasn’t on a diet,” she said.People are used to the real deal here,” he said. “Once you’ve had a proper pasty it’s hard to make do with a mass-produced one. It may be cheaper but you’re not getting that quality. There’s a difference when you make them yourself.”