Sorry, but the trouble with people who don't read a thread from the start is that they don't realise that the baseboard exists already and there is plenty of room around it - otherwise I agree with everything you say!

You could run round a longer train in the branch platform if you reversed the crossovers, especially the one on the left (or put the platform on the other side of the loop). A lot of people build a 6x4 or 8x4 for their first layout, but very few do so for their second and there's good reasons why. I posted an answer to your question you posted on my topic here, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/104302-a-new-family-8x4-layout/?p=2112778 so I won't repeat myself here. Building a new baseboard has been fun and this time around I’ve tried to make sure that it’s (a) possible to dismantle it by building it in sections (b) that it can be accurately levelled using adjutable feet and (c) that it is strong and robust by using support battons every one foot length of baseboard (total length 8.5 feet)However if you mirror image the plan the sidings become trailing problem solved, and if you put two extra sidings on the fan of three and remove the return loop sidings it removes one electrical complication. as you can put in a diamond crossing and have the loop going from outer main to inner main and not actually forming a loop, As I understand it box rooms are not very big so an 8' X 4' island layout is probably not the best use of the space, I would suggest as Tony57 has a wall hugging narrow shelf layout around the walls of the room.

What’s more, he’s got busy with a theme in mind. I think that’s important because over the years the layouts that turn out the best always have a theme in mind from day one.Can anyone guide us towards the best single level layout (utilising the at least the bits that we have and the anticipated 44"/110cm wide MAX x 7'/2.1m long board). I'm an amateur at anyrail - haven't figured out colours and layers yet so I've broken the second tier out as below so it makes sense. So, my initial SCARM plan has changed considerably and a very basic re-worked layout seems to be approaching what I think will be close to a final configuration. I’ve attached one picture to show the basic arrangement so far. Not quite. Please take another look at the Scarm diagram. There are 2 diamond crossings. The return loop in the centre needs to leave the outer line at the bottom and cross the inner line via a diamond. Hence the train moves from the outer line to the inner line when reversing. Trains drive on the left. The return to the upper level (to be prototypical which is not essential) needs to leave the inner line and cross the outer line via a diamond crossing again. That crossover you have put in is facing the direction of travel of a train. Not so much these days, but in the past on real railways facing crossovers were avoided. BUT its your railway! The outer to inner crossing on your reversing loop would make the electrics simpler for DC too.

And that goes for the simple layouts too. A theme really does ‘glue’ all the visual parts of a layout together.

Hornby R8156

I suppose we're a little "trapped" between building the first layout while ensuring we leave options for the future (I.e. expansion, redesign, etc). I grew up with Lego and that offers endless flexibility as you never fix it to a board!!)

I think David & Jon (jon_1066) have offered a great plan that interprets your original idea and the suggestions of others very well. I think they have a gift for that! I know that the reversing loops create electrical problems, but if you go full DCC then this can be taken care of. The running opportunities probably out way the difficulty/cost. I too have a NEC Powercab and really like it. Tried others when visiting Digitrains in Lincoln and found it the easiest to hold and work with. I found I could actually use it left or righthand which meant it frees you dominant hand for doing things like uncoupling, point control and other hands on tasks. Easy to walk round the layout with it too. You can add another throttle (NEC CAB04,05 or 06) very easily for two operator control; 2 kids, a very useful feature. A bit of my re-design is to do with practical reasons. For example, it doesn’t make sense to lean over three sidings when using the turntable – so they need to be more distant. Hi I would not start with 8X4. If you can get all around it 8X5 is better, if you have a central operating well 8x6 is better if you can't get all round and it goes long side to the wall then 8X 4 is too big a reach. So, I only need to cover the nail tips rather than seal leaks. Useful perhaps info if you’re running an attic layout.

DCC - wha'ts a good controller i.e. Bachmann Dyn Ultima, NCE Powercab seem reasonable - or Hornby Elite - as starter kits. I've seen that NCE Powercab initially can only have 2-3 trains? Anyway the plan. The sidings are the wrong way round for left hand running as per UK as you need to reverse in to sidings to shunt, engine trailing and the return loop is an electrical complication. I'd like to create two levels and get used to gradient work - as my future aspirations will be to do this on a bigger layout so will need practice landscaping Well, my initial enthusiasm for building my new layout continues but I’d forgotten a couple of key issues since I built my first layout. Probably most important is the sensible display of HD buildings. They need to be spread out across the layout and in a way that maximises their display value. So, I want the turntable with its shed (and extension) to invite the eye to look at the parked locos within. I’ve attached a picture from my old layout which, hopefully, shows the look I’m after.