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Moro: The Cookbook

Moro: The Cookbook

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Everyone loves toast. But there is toast and… toast. In Moro Easy, a new cookbook by Sam and Sam Clark, there are no fewer than 10 recipes for things on toast. Some are straightforward, almost austere: I can’t imagine the person who wouldn’t be able to rustle up a few slices of their tomato and jamon toast (the secret lies with a grater and just the right amount of garlic). Others are luxuriant: imagine a crisp oval of sourdough topped with a thin tortilla and aioli – a breakfast treat they first ate in Barcelona’s Boqueria market – or with crab warmed in butter and Oloroso sherry and lightly seasoned with fresh chilli and thyme. fillet of salt cod 300g dried weight, washed and soaked in the fridge for 48 hours, changing the water 4 times (see below) The Clarks’ first book – Moro, the Cookbook – came out in 2001, four years after their influential restaurant, its menu inspired by their travels in north Africa and the eastern Mediterranean, opened in 1997; instantly hailed as a classic by Nigella Lawson and Claudia Roden, it remains much loved (though they’ve since published several more). Is it hard to write in its shadow? “It’s good having a bit of distance between the books,” says Sam. “But, though we’re proud of the first one, we’ve never quite been able to understand its success. The other books have recipes that are just as good. It kind of became part of the culture for a while, didn’t it?”

Drain the salt cod and remove any skin or bones. Shred the cod between your fingers into soft, fibrous flakes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the peppers, tomatoes, half the parsley and the onion. Put the olive oil and butter into a large frying pan (30cm) over a medium heat, and when the butter starts to foam, add the garlic and fry gently for a minute until very lightly golden. Add the potatoes to the pan and stir well. Season with a little more salt and pepper, then fry gently for 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally and taking care the garlic doesn’t burn, until golden and crisp on all sides.Put the chunks of chocolate into a bain-marie (a heatproof bowl set over barely simmering water). Once melted, remove from the heat and stir in the butter to melt. Stir in the caster sugar, ground almonds and a small pinch of sea salt.

Now the Moro’s award winning chefs, the married team of Sam and Sam (Samantha) Clark, share their restaurant’s most delicious and successful recipes in Moro: The Cookbook. The crust method was new for me. The dough contains flour, confectioner's sugar, butter, and an egg yolk. It gets very hard when chilled, and is then grated into a tart pan and is pressed around to make the shell. It was a little difficult to get the pressing even in the fluted edges, otherwise pretty easy. Our aromatic bird emerged looking a little burnt in spots due to my addition of honey but thankfully it was perfectly cooked, tender and juicy. The heat of the Harissa was just right and made for a really delicious roast. I’d definitely make this again. I served it with some warm Harissa-infused honey on the side for dipping. Photos here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/846989#7313524 This was super simple, but we loved it. Swiss chard is blanched in boiling water, drained and tossed with salt and pepper, lemon juice and olive oil. In my case, we skipped the pepper, and I cooked the greens in salty water which eliminated the need to add salt after cooking. The instructions call for blanching the leaves and then the stems sequentially, but I put the chopped stems in first and added the leaves when the stems were almost done. I cook greens several times a week, nearly always sauteed in olive oil with garlic. This was a good reminder to get out my boiling pot more often. The chard had a perfect, tender texture and the simple dressing of lemon juice and good quality olive oil was light, springy, and delicious. I used young red chard and the jewel-like colors of the cooked greens and stems were extremely attractive. My only regret is losing the cooking water when I drained the pot. It would have made a splendid soup base.My tart took 40 minutes to bake, and I had to make a foil collar as the crust was getting pretty brown.

Samuel and Sam Clark, chef-owners of the Moro and Morito restaurants, in their garden in north London. Photograph: Pål Hansen/The Observer Moro Easy is the new cookbook from Sam &Sam Clark, with a focus on home-cookingpaired with their signature use of flavours andingredients from North Africa and SouthernSpain. Moro Easy contains simple, no-fussrecipes which will have wide appeal for thehome cook. For a more substantial meal, serve this on toast with a dollop of soft goat’s cheese on top to melt into the warm, sweet spinach. This recipe is endlessly compatible. Gently pour the batter into the prepared cake tin and lightly sprinkle the top with flaky sea salt. My friend Sara Fanelli baked this gluten-free cake for us. We love it, especially with a little sea salt sprinkled on top.The next layer consists of butter, caster sugar, ground almonds, cinnamon, orange and lemon zest, eggs, and oloroso sherry. Place a large (30cm) heavy ovenproof casserole pan with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat, and add the oil and butter. When the butter begins to foam, add the leeks and bay leaves and a good pinch of salt, and fry for 10 minutes or until the leeks are soft and sweet, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the potatoes to a dish. Sprinkle over the za’atar, spring onions, coriander and peppers, and toss gently. This recipe is from our second cookbook, Casa Moro. The flavour of the carrots is very important, so for that reason we would recommend you buy English organic vegetables. At Moro we serve them with triangles of crisp pitta bread. Add the peas and fish, replace the lid and cook for 5-8 minutes, until just cooked through. Remove from the heat, turn the fish and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

Once the chocolate mixture has cooled slightly, stir in the egg yolks. Using a metal spoon, stir in one heaped spoonful of the whisked egg whites. Once this spoonful is fully incorporated, gently fold in the remaining egg whites.Wilt the washed spinach in a wide dry pan (30cm) in two to three batches over a medium heat. When soft, transfer to a colander to drain and cool. Squeeze out any excess water and roughly chop.



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