Citadel Colour’s Coelia Greenshade is a high-quality acrylic paint designed for use in miniature painting. It features a rich, heavily pigmented formula that dries to a matte finish, creating the perfect foundation for any miniature model. As a part of Citadel’s extensive palette of colors for miniatures, Coelia Greenshade offers great coverage, making it a good option for beginners and experts alike. Its unique formulation allows it to add depth and definition to recesses, shading and enhancing the natural details of your miniature models. What Xenos armies to paint with Coelia Greenshade The pale skin is a two part process. Like the Hobgrotz, the hero is countershaded but the effect is much more sublte. Also by Max Brooks, The Zombie Survival Guide is an interesting look at what surviving a zombie apocalypse would actually entail, and talks about some of the more interesting dynamics you might not have considered, such as destroying the staircase in a house to prevent zombies from following you up. Dead Island is a pretty solid entry into the video game canon, having players fight off zombies as they attempt to escape a resort island. A Duke Nukem Forever-esque sequel to it was announced like 8 years ago. For tongues I’ll usually do the Squid Pink to finish it off, gives it that nice pink tongue look. The same will work for tentacles or other fleshy growths that you want to distinguish from the main mass. But really any colors would work just as well – I just like to start dark at the base and move to light at the tips. I did some nice Blue tongues in the same style on my warlord for the Astradus campaign. I don’t want to say his name, he’s a very litigious misfit. Horns, Claws, and Teefs

To be fair the only P3 washes I have are flesh and armour so I can't exactly provide a comprehensive assessment, but I really like both of them.Any flesh I want in a grey-dead flesh colour and I want the armour ornamentation to be a really worn brass and the armour itself to be heavily rusty around all the edges and areas that would attract wear. Next, do your non-flesh colors. I used Balor Brown for the hair, Warpstone Glow for the eyes, and Wazdakka Red for the tastefully placed rags. Verdigris was added by painting Nihilakh Oxide into select recesses. I then added a bit of VGC Foul Green [ Sybarite Green] to further enrichen the effect. Here is the first test model I painted during the seminar.I applied various shade paints, including the new Agrax Earthshade, the new Nuln Oil, and the new Seraphim Sepia. Despite the pretty rough coat of primer, you can literally feel how the dark pigments are drawn into the recesses after a few seconds. And the result is really amazing. Significantly less pooling in the flat areas, and dark and strong shadows.

Paint Citadel Coelia Greenshade into the recesses of the flesh and Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey into the recesses of the cloth and you’re done.A good first impression, but let’s take a look at this in a direct comparison between old and new. I primed this test model at home with a coat of Corax White spray, which is a matt light grey primer. On the left side of the model, I apply the old Citadel Shade paints and on the right side the new versions. After everything is dry, here is the result: At the moment, GW’s new range of Shades and Contrast Paints are quite a hot topic amongst hobbyists. They claim to provide exceptional vibrancy and coverage, ultimately allowing painters to produce stunning results in a short amount of time. GW marketing pieces have shown off the intensity of these new colors, but mainly on a monochromatic “this is what this color looks like” basis. In this article we’ll look at a compilation of practical applications of the new Contrast Paints and various looks you can achieve with them. For the Grimdark… After I lay down these colors, it’s time for shading. I cover the model in liberal coats of Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade to tint the skin and give it more color depth. These go on haphazardly, but I’ll pool around the sores and add streaks in key places like below open sores and wounds to give it the skin a stained appearance from whatever was seeping out. I’ll also add a bit of Coelia Greenshade where I want more green hues.

These guys are Age of Sigmar Bladegiests and Ghouls with various Genestealer, Hormagaunt and GSC acolyte bits crudely welded on with big messy blobs of greenstuff. Everything is given a spray of wraithbone to start, and then a heavy wash of druchii violet. Before that dries, take a sponge and randomly dab bits off – not just off the top, but getting the corner of the sponge into the crevices as well, letting it go where it will to really pull the wash unevenly. Nurgle daemons are very forgiving and fun to paint. You can incorporate bright and dark colors, nearly on a whim, to experiment and learn. The best part about painting Nurgle daemons is that, even when you mess up, if it looks cool, Papa Nurgle can justify it. Plus you get an excuse to heavily use weathering and other effects! Let’s get into it. I find it really useful to paint the heads as a separate subassembly, it really helps to get the faces right if you have 360 degree access to them, rather than struggling to paint them when they’re surrounded by a high collar. I also at this point tagged the sores with Plaguebearer Flesh, then when that was dry did a thin glaze of Casandora Yellow to heighten the saturation and make them look more gross. For the tentacles some of them have, I first put a small ring of the flesh contrast paint around the base of them. I then grabbed Vulpus Pink and blended with the flesh contrast to create a gradient between the zombie itself and whatever demonic thing controls that tentacle. Vulpus Pink is one of my favorite contrast colors and I try to find any use for it I can. You might want to do another thin coat of Vulpus on the upper half of each tentacle to make the color more intense.Basecoat any claws with Lupercal Green, shade with Coelia Greenshade, highlight with Sons of Horus Green

Additional colors on this mini include Stormfiend for the scales, Garaghak’s Sewers for the wood, Targor Rageshade for the skin of the reptilian beast and Berseker Bloodshade for the scarring. For the Xenos…The Eldar, T’au, and Tyranid armies are all known for their complex and visually striking designs, making them a great choice for painting with this shade. By using Coelia Greenshade alongside other Citadel paints, you can create a visually stunning army that stands out on the tabletop. Coelia Greenshade Colour Schemes & Combinations Wash armor and weapons with a 3:1 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone and Vallejo Sepia Ink (any brown ink will do) REC and its inferior-but-still good US remake Quarantine are both solid, following a reporter and her cameraman as they’re trapped in a building following an incident where residents are infected with a disease that turns them into zombies. Next I hit the innards and tongues with Bugman’s Glow or Blood Angels Red. I highlight the tongues with Emperor’s Children Pink, edge highlight the skin a bit, dot the eyes with Reaper Pure White, and hit the horns with Rakarth Flesh. The goal is to not spend too much time on these, especially since I need to paint 9 of them. The end result works pretty well, though, giving them a lot of variety to look at and not making them look like uniform blobs.