Well, I'm not terribly scientific about it, I just ground up a bunch of balsa scraps using a dremel, and dumped some elmers in. Be advised, after you fill an area with this substance you'll want to smooth it off with a damp rag or damp paper towel. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. I found it easy to work with, no fumes (in peoples homes), a few drops of water to change consistency, doesn't seem to shrink, dries fast. New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging .

But then the harden putty just fell off but I think it was too dry, so I’m going to try again since I’m getting more. Unwanted holes or chips in your wood furniture do not mean the end of your favorite household pieces. I have been using the Elmer's for a couple of years now for certain projects (Painted projects), haven't seen the name change, but I get mine at Lowes, as I haven't seen it at Home Depot.For me, the metal of a putty knife wants to pull Timbermate a bit out of the hole if you work it too much, but using a little block of wood right after applying the filler really locks it in and levels the filler fast. The stainable wood filler doesn’t match the texture of the wood around it, even when you prestain the blob of it ahead of time in a paper cup before filling the burn hole. I do wish it was a tad stickier most of the time it sticks perfectly, but I’ve had moments like I was putting a chair back together and one of the dowels for a leg spindle that connected the legs together. The impression that I got was that it would be a great product for the 'typical' use of a wood filler where you really want it to dry hard and be drillable without crumbling, but it was way too hard, and coarse, for balsa wood.

I’ve also tried a plastic wood for burns in the past……prestain a blob of it, fill the burn and touch up the spot little by little with a Q tip dipped in your stain. If you leave excess and plan to sand it off that will work too, but you will go through a lot of sandpaper ; ) This filler dries super hard - much moreso than typical wood-fill or vinyl spackle. As you sand, you will likely encounter areas of putty that haven't fully cured, so this mix may need to be sanded in stages, depending on how bug of a void you're fillling.This way you can get a closer match to the stain color you will be using and it’ll conceal the repaired area far better. Well part of the wood dowel broke leaving half a dowel normally I’d attempt to glue the broken wood that came off and I tried that but I couldn’t get the clamp to stay still, so I threw the broken part away and put wood putty in it’s place and formed the putty into the same shape as the dowel was originally. Anymore, I've gotten to the point that no matter who it is, I'll post a comment in their "contact us" tab at the bottom of the page if I have a complaint, question or a compliment.