It features a solid brass and stainless steel build, with a bubinga fence accent that feels amazing in the hand. Combined with its hefty weight, it’s an incredibly satisfying tool to use. The photo below shows that when the ‘Fancy’ insert screws were changed to Phillips, the Thumbscrew had no knurling. There seems to be such variation in the Brass slide castings around this time. Second from Right has Phillips on Stem and Brass head ‘plates’, but Slot screws for the ‘Fancy’ insert. It has two brass panels down the front to protect both the tool and workpiece from scratching each other.

When it comes to wheel gauges, it can be difficult to sharpen them due to just how small they are. One false move once they’re unscrewed and they could disappear never to be seen again! The best way to sharpen a wheel gauge is to remove the blade and rub it bezel-up on your sharpening stones. If you’re having trouble gripping it, try holding it down with a simple pencil eraser. A marking gauge can technically be used for mortises by changing the measurements, but it’s best to use a mortise gauge or combination gauge. In a pinch, you can even use two separate marking gauges for each side of the mortise. The fence has large enough that it butts up against the edge of a workpiece to easily make a measurement. The #2154.1/2 with the additional pin, [making it a combination Mortice/Marking Gauge as opposed to the 2 pin Mortice Gauge of #2154] is only found in the 1938 Catalogue, so I am unsure of when it was actually introduced and then withdrawn 2 different examples shown below:The #2117 gauge was a standard gauge between very early times and 1959<, but of course with various number changes [see chart]. A standard low cost gauge [because it was not thumbscrew operated]. Made however with Rosewood and with ‘fancy’ brass and ‘plated’ head. Of course, in these early times, Rosewood would have been readily available from South America. Gauge# 2052 Beechwood, Half Round polished Head, not plated and with a cream coloured Plastic Thumbscrew. This one below is from around 1960. Issued from the very beginning and until 1965+

Gauge #2092. Rosewood with Boxwood Thumbscrew, Brass Hooped. Was available as #640 in 1888 Cat. and in 1909[#2092] but was not listed in 1921 [dropped in WW1?] but again is listed in 1928, but no further. The pencil gauge is often overlooked as being a useful addition to the tool kit, but for me, it’s an essential part of my layout and marking equipment. In fact I use it for marking out nearly all my woodworking joints prior to using a marking gauge or a scalpel. I’m a teacher at Robinson House Studio furniture school in East Sussex and I often let the students use my own tools so they can experience as many different ways of working as possible before settling on one that suits their style. A favourite among the students for the last few years has been my collection of `shop-made pencil gauges. When it comes to layout, marking and measuring it helps to have a good solid technique and a selection of tools that you can rely on. So, what better way to combine these principles than to incorporate them into a live project and make one of your own? This article is based on one of our set piece projects that includes all the elements of accurate marking, measuring and cutting to produce a tool that will become a firm favourite in your layout armoury.Of the earlier versions I seem to find that the Head clamping screw is slightly larger than later, as is the brass insert. They always had steel countersunk oval head slot screws, being discontinued in c.1959. The length of the milled slot in the brass stem also appears to vary, earlier were longer. Credit subject to status and affordability. Terms and conditions apply. Axminster Tool Centre Ltd trading as Axminster Tools is a credit broker and is Authorised and Regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Credit is provided by Novuna Personal Finance, a trading style of Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC, authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Financial Services Register no. 704348.

Tight joinery begins with crisp, accurate layout. This is why a scribed or cut line is better than a pencil line for most layout work. A knife and square can be used for most (if not all) layout jobs, but I find that a gauge is often more efficient and accurate. The three most commonly used in woodworking are the marking gauge, the mortise gauge, and the cutting gauge. Marking and mortise gauges use a pointed pin to scribe lines with the grain, while a cutting gauge has a knifelike blade that slices fibers across the grain. The saw motor is high-performance and powerful, 5.5 kW (7.5 hp). The guides have zero-play and are free-moving. In conjunction with the robust mounting of the motor carriage, this ensures effort-free and precise operation. The saw has an 80mm cutting depth as standard. The Saw Frame – Strong and stable That said, don’t rush out to buy replacement blades as soon as the edge starts to break. Even a dull wheel gauge will mark your pieces just fine due to the small size of the ring. You might not get as clean of an edge as a cutting gauge, but it should at least be comparable to pins. Can I make my own marking gauge? Hopefully this brief primer on how to use a marking gauge can help you get started, but there really is no alternative to practice. Grab your gauge and get to work! How do you sharpen a marking gauge? The cutting gauge’s knife is held in place with a wedge, this also allows it to be removed or replaced if it becomes dull. A dull blade will not mark the workpiece as accurately as a sharp blade, because it will leave a much wider line.

A Woodworker’s Guide to Marking Gauges

Absolutely! Although marking gauges are inexpensive to buy, making your own tools is a great way to gain a deeper understanding of your craft. Why? Because once you set a marking gauge to do a specific job for your piece, you’ll want to keep it that way until you finish. Constantly remeasuring and resetting your gauge not only kills the convenience of the tool, it also increases the likelihood of making a mistake. If you plan to do any type of woodworking with hand tools, you absolutely need at least one marking gauge. Power tool-focused builders might be able to do without one, but it’s still a useful addition to just about any toolbox. Regardless of the specifics, all you need to do is hold the marking gauge against the reference surface, move the pin or cutter to where it needs to be, and tighten your thumb screw or slide in the wedge. Generally speaking, a marking gauge contains a single pin, while a mortise gauge has two. However, the term marking gauge can encompass both types of layout tools. What’s the difference between a marking gauge and a cutting gauge?