Time has come for my two steggies to be painted. I'm planning to paint one of them red and the other one blue. As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots! The bases were GW texture paint, that after the overspray from the original airbrushing, were washed with the same dull green I used on the metals, spotted washes of Vallejo dark green, some additional browns pushed around the edges of the greens and then all washed with GW. Nuln Oil “Gloss” to give the ground the damp-swamp feel. The pale skin is a two part process. Like the Hobgrotz, the hero is countershaded but the effect is much more sublte. DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon.

For 'purplish' scales I could use Dark Reaper->Violet/Crimson-> not sure if I would Highlight with Warpfiend/Slaanesh or Calgar/Fenrisian The edge highlights were a mix of Scale75 Crimson Ink and Silver (any bright silver is fine). The model was varnished with AK Satin Varnish. Highlight flesh with thinned Citadel Death Guard Green and the off-white areas with Citadel Karak Stone. Paint mouth, elbows, and knees with thinned Army Painter Purple tone. I did this to give the model some definition and to add a little color into the scheme wherePaint Citadel Coelia Greenshade into the recesses of the flesh and Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey into the recesses of the cloth and you’re done. For 'greener' scales I could use Stegadon Scale/Dark Reaper-> Nuln or Agrax/Coelia->Thunderhawk or Dark Reaper->Coelia->Thunderhawk The scheme gets its depth from a metallic Gold pre-shade that is applied before the Clear Red. The Clear Red then gives that high gloss ‘candy’ finish to the paint scheme. One of the advantages of doing this scheme is that the finish is so glossy that you really don’t need to edge highlight or shade/pin wash the finish. That being said, one of the disadvantages is that you do need to apply a couple of coats when basecoating the other elements of the model as the adhesion to the Clear Red is not great. I finish the scheme with a Satin Varnish to maintain that shiny finish but also protect the candy coat. I do hope you give this scheme a try, as it is a lot of fun and very rewarding!

Rust up metal weapons and banners with Citadel Technical Typhus Corrosion and stab it with VMC Orange-Red. They were then washed with watered down dull green from Vallejo.. the color name wore off the bottle so, that’s all I got for you. It’s a shade that’s as lush as a rainforest and as vibrant as a springtime meadow, yet it’s also rich and nuanced, like the shadows of a dense forest canopy. I want the colour to be distinct, but somewhat 'muted' and natural. For both of them I want the scales to be darker in value and with less chroma (so darker and not-as-blue or not-as-red as the rest of the skin).Highlight face, elbows, and knees with Vallejo Model Color Silver Grey. This helps to integrate the purple into the overall skin tones And finally edge highlighted very sparingly with (again the name has worn off, but I think its aluminum.) Red scales could replicate red skin scheme, but using a dark nuln oil shade and avoiding the brightest highlighs I remember I used to loathe the Wraithknight model when it was released. Compared to the Wraithknight and Revenant Titan, to me, it felt very cluttered with details, antennas and oval shapes. I didn’t like the bulky legs and chest, and I also didn’t like the Spiritseer inspired head. I really wanted to like the modelbecause the concept of two pilots, one sibling alive and one dead, is so inventive. But I just couldn’t. Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey.