Make sure to always fill it to the very top of the rim — even if you have to use tap water (distilled is better), it’ll still be better for the developer than allowing air to oxidize the solution and render it useless.

Any failure of Film Foto Store to exercise or enforce any right or provision of the Terms and Conditions shall not constitute a waiver of such right or provision. The Terms and Conditions constitutes the entire agreement between you and Film Foto Store, and governs your use of the service, superseding any prior agreements (including, but not limited to, any prior versions of the Terms of Service). If any provision of these Terms and Conditions is held by a court of competent jurisdiction to be invalid, illegal or unenforceable for any reason, such provision shall be eliminated or limited to the minimum extent such that the remaining provisions of the Terms of Service will continue in full force and effect. Limitation of Liability Using distilled or demineralized water helps to reduce the number of contaminants that can ruin the solution over time. Please note that you will need a darkroom/ changing bag/light-tight environment for first loading your films onto the developing reels*With a blix kit, I can get through a round of C41 developing in about 20 minutes start to finish. With the Flic Film kits, it takes me about 30 minutes when all is said and done. But for the extra capacity and control, this time cost is negligible. A few things to bear in mind. Tetenal suggests that to get the best yield rate out of the chemicals, you process at least four rolls of film at a time. Also, high ISO film will exhaust the developer at a faster rate, so be prepared to get fewer rolls through a kit if you shoot 800 and above.

The Flic Film kit does take a little longer than a regular C41 kit to develop a roll, and I do wish they would give more information in the pamphlet that comes with the developer. But as it stands, I firmly believe that this is the best option for film photographers on the market. jolom, claudialarocca, rdetoyato, idream, brianlarmay, msantanaphoto, david1981, hulinhjalmur, kpopbug, aliebri, jbasco, shufi, skyler_burkhart, merry, morlice, cruxsader, jennifer_pos, lenebean, teke99, lupideeloop, dvdijl, connyg93, jita_rihu, turuncuaz, b2377, elhenneh, stolosapo, fotosintetica, wiccat, timmyyoong, sven-bauweraerts, juzifer, puppettina, sophbogar, michaelfr, nohm , Me doing some C41 film developing at home yesterday. Get inspired to try it yourself! If you are looking for a film developing guide you might prefer my more detailed how to develop film at home post!In a pinch, the cold water from your tap will have fewer contaminants in solution than hot water, since cold water comes straight from the source. Using a water rinse before the blix will help the solution keep longer. 3. Rinse or use a stop bath after the developer It’s important to note that even though you can pull film more than one stop, most developers won’t do it — even if they shoot the film 3 stops overexposed, they will usually only pull the film by 1 stop. Color film has extremely good overexposure latitude compared to B&W and does not need to be pulled to control excessive highlight development. As a general rule, you should add 2% to the developing time after each roll of film developed. That means after developing 6 rolls of film, you’ll have to add 12% to the developing time. The company also supplies film accessories, including a small precision water temperature bath to keep C41 and E6 chemicals at the perfect temperature for developing film.