The dual drive extruder replaces the toothed gear and idler of the single gear design with two hobbed gears, which each have a concave toothed section for gripping the filament and are connected with gear teeth on the bottom so they simultaneously apply pressure to the filament from both sides. One gear is mounted directly to the motor shaft, and the other uses an internal bearing to rotate freely. Both gears are made of steel and are unlikely to experience wear issues. This extruder is seen on Creality’s premium 3D printers, including the CR-10S Pro, Ender 6, and CR-X Pro. Because the Sprite extruder is a direct drive extruder and doesn’t need to push the filament through a long tube to the hot end, it requires a much shorter retraction distance than Bowden extruders. You should adjust the retraction settings in your slicer accordingly. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to your printer by following this guide. You are doing this on your own responsibility. In the pictures below, you can see the print quality you can expect after upgrading your Ender 3 S1 to Klipper. The first calibration cube was printed with 50mm/s, during my review. The second calibration cube was printed at 100mm/s with the Klipper config shared in this article.

Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Kit - 3DJake International Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Kit - 3DJake International

The Sprite extruder-only upgrade requires a different e-step value, which is a setting that controls how far the printer needs to turn the extruder motor to extrude a certain amount of filament. You can configure the e-steps for the Sprite extruder using this process: I’m nearly up and running, but I keep getting the same error. “Recv: // MCU ‘mcu’ shutdown: Not a valid ADC pin” I copied and used your config file. I do have the F4 board, but have found the proper help to get that part figured out. Any help would be appreciated!

Customer Reviews

I got the variant with the STM32F401, It didn’t flash at first, but I got it to flash by creating a folder named “STM32F4_UPDATE” and putting the bin file in that, but after flashing, klippy wouldn’t connect to the mcu. I don’t think there’s a reason to change it. Maybe because if you print in an enclosure, but even then, the plastic should withstand it. You can find it here: https://www.3djake.uk/creality-3d-printers-spare-parts/sprite-extruder-pro-upgrade-kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ High Temperature | Full Metal

This extruder design is what shipped on the first Creality 3D printers, starting with the CR-10, and it can still be found on some of the newer budget 3D printers like the Ender 3 and Ender 2 Pro. The single-gear design is a fairly simple mechanism, using a single toothed gear attached directly to the extruder motor to drive the filament, with a free turning idler pulley on the other side of the filament.The simpler design means they are typically less expensive and result in a lower total printer cost.

Sprite Extruder Pro AND CR-Touch [Tutorial] Just bought the Sprite Extruder Pro AND CR-Touch

Despite its small size of only 54 x 50 x 64.3 mm and a weight of only 288 g, the Sprite Extruder Pro is a powerful combination of extruder and hotend that offers many practical functions. The only options for an Ender 3V2 is with or with and CR touch, but NOTHING for a Sprite Hot end, and this is where it starts to go wrong. The setup progresses and allows me to manually set the Z Offset and then Tram the bed at the 4 corners, all good up to here. BUT the next screen is ABL and after homing the printhead moves OUTSIDE the print bed (at the front) due to the difference between the standard Ender 3V2 Hotend and location of the CR Touch and the Sprite Pro Hotend and it’s location to the CR touch. The Print head that move down and “hits” the bed freezing the setup process. For the Sprite Pro extruder, you get the aluminum body with a titanium heat break while on the regular extruder you get a plastic body and a PTFE lined heat break. I assume this will require a firmware upgrade for the ender 3 max. If so, where can I get the firmware. Note that the Sprite is an integrated unit that includes both the extruder and hot end. In the original version of the Sprite, the hot end uses a short PTFE tube section and is able to print at up to 260° C. There is also a Pro version with an all-metal hot end, described in the next section. The hot end uses the standard nozzles found on many of Creality’s Bowden hot ends—a definite plus over some other designs that use non-standard nozzle threading.

High-temperature hot end ( ≤ 300 °C)

Now that you have a direct drive extruder, you should see improved performance on prints with frequent retractions. You’ll also have better results printing with flexible filament, such as TPU. Enjoy your upgraded 3D printer! Creality Ender 3, Creality Ender 3 Pro, Creality Ender 3 V2, Creality Ender 3 Max, Creality CR-10 Smart Pro, Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro Does the PTFE go all the way down to the nozzle like the ender s1 sprite extruder. How can you claim 300° hotend when the PTFE touches the nozzle? Another thing you may want to change (after troubleshooting) is the PROBING_MARGIN. I measured the range the clips occupied and it was about 2cm, so I left it at that. Even though the manual assumes you are running an Ender 3, the information is a lot more helpful compared to getting no information, like with the Artillery All-Metal Extruder.