New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging . If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag. The range includes tungsten carbide router bits which are suitable for use on softwoods, hardwoods, plywood and some plastics. If you were to try to do this freehand, by just moving the workpiece over the bit without a fence, it would be very easy to inadvertently make a climb cut, which could cause the workpiece to move suddenly in a direction you don't expect.

I can tell you from experience these are as robust and heavy duty as they come and the motor is 3HP which is great for heavy operations like surfacing or panel raising in the router table.International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions. When doing slots I go 1/8" at a pass and I have a 3 HP motor digitally controlled speed on my table. The router guide sled you have bridging the rails needs to be strong enough to not flex and sag midway through the pass. Where are your hands intended to go and is one potentially in the path the router is trying to take it if this happens?

of the time they've probably been used for kitchen worktops, and in the hands of a novice, that means bearing and collet wear (as they try to take too-deep cuts with gummy or dull cutters). I have various standard straight router bits but am wondering if there are specific bits designed for flattening a board? Yours is one of those tasks where a good-quality router in good nick will make shedloads of difference, as will the quality of the trammel arrangement you contrive -- straightness, parallelism and sag of the crosspiece(s). I'd suggest using your router table's fence and making passes in the usual direction (right to left), and moving the fence a little farther from the bit after each pass.wings make a fast and clean cut on your project material, great for projects of any level of complexity.

I would strongly suggest using gripper pads and guiding the work piece from above, rather than the easier (and more tempting) way of holding the work piece by it's edges.I’m getting ready to build a router sled to flatten slabs and other boards, I don't have a jointer big enough. You'll be working blind, so you can't see in real time what the bit is doing and whether a problem is occurring that can't be heard but only seen.