If you can get a screwdriver or whatever in here and pull the lever down towards the bottom of the catch body, this will release the fish-hook and the bonnet will release. This is a comparison to the lock placement in the above picture for future reference should it be required.

The mechanism was reasonably dirt and rust free for 7yo but I did find that the secondary latch "fish hook" wouldn't latch due to partial seizure of the pivots to this and the release lever shafts. Please remember it can take some time for your bank or credit card company to process and post the refund. The bonnet lock screws are T27 in size, although I didn't have mine, so I used a T25 bit which worked fine.It's held in a holder underneath, you will need to look over the bonnet as it sits behind the radiator next to the headlamp. So, if that procedure fails, you will need to remove the bonnet catch without being able to remove the front grille. Using the Dremmel, I carefully made the hole in the plastic grille, around the bolt-head, considerably larger. I've broken the attachment on this dial/wheel so I'm going to have to do a bit of DIY and attach a string to the end of the cable (it has a ball bearing at the end), until I get a replacement handle. It does amazing at clearing off the old built up crap on the bonnet lock and will help get rid of any build ups before you regrease it.

Once the badge is removed, the first two bolts are not immediately visible - they are under the top lip of black moulded black plastic. However, I do live in the worst place for cars in the UK - they salt roads for well over 6 months of the year up here.However, please note that our tool is for reference only and we recommend that you check the part number on your old unit prior to purchasing. Coating all the exposed springs with grease, as somebody on one the forums proposed, would just attract more grit as far as I can see - I don't think that would solve the problem on its own. Was trying to fight around with the mechanism and I ended up breaking the bonnet latch cable plastic guide I know for Fuc* Sake -_- Any ways. I had to drill a series of small holes around the 3rd and final Torx screw located within the black plastic in the front grill. Note: Be careful not to drill in too far as you may cause damage or rupture any other mechanical parts / radiator etc.

If you turn the VW badge to the left and remove it from the grille you should be able to access the 3x bolts that hold the bonnet catch to the slam panel. I was unaware how the locking mechanism worked so just assumed it required some oil / lubrication like WD40. So I took it off again and went back to using the claw and then greased the latch up (especially when the clip is in the locked position - you can get down in the back of it with WD40 and grease). Just bought a 2004 MK5 Golf and when the seller tried to open the bonnet, it opened first time however he tried to close it and it wouldn't close. Followed a hodgepodge of all the different instructions on these various posts and here is my experience.

I've read several how-to guides on the net (including the excellent one on this thread) but none of them go into much detail about this bit so I'm assuming I'm doing something horribly wrong!

Once you have your badge out (I had to break one of the clips to get mine out 😪) you can grab the rubber cable guide. Ensure that the plastic guide attached to the end of the release cable is clipped on to the new latch mechanism.I thought this may have been more due to not refitting the lock correctly but I didn’t want to take any chances. The person pressing down on the bonnet can then let go and the bonnet should move to the popped position. New cable purchased and just need to fit it now after cleaning and de-siezing the locking mechanism.