In the next 10-15 minutes, Herba Fresca mellows down. The mint & lily-of-the-valley ease their icyness, and their freshness becomes more natural. For the next several hours (and I mean several– this lasts an impressive long time!), Herba Fresca smells of fresh mint & tea leaves floating in cool water, a crisp spring breeze, and clean, dewy clovers. Its sillage is extremely transparent, almost elusive – yet, it surprises you with subtle hints of scent during the day.

Opening with a soft wave of herbal greenery, Herba Fresca presents the freshly crushed leaves of garden mint over a delightfully floral blend of iced green tea. There’s something so remarkably satisfying about this almost-drinkable fragrance that makes it utterly irresistible to even the most mean-spirited of noses. Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca reminds me of a specific type of Moroccan-style tea shop that can be an oasis on a brutally hot day. There are flowers adding color and their fragrance to the small room. Fresh cut lemons are also contributing their zest to the atmosphere. But the dominant smell is the mint tea that the place is making and serving. That is the impression I get from this scent. Aptly named “Fresh Grass”, Herba Fresca is a simple but interesting fragrance – light and airy enough so non-perfume fans might enjoy it, unique and faceted enough so perfume fans might enjoy it just as well. 🙂 TLDR:Good (3.1/5). A great choice for hot days when you want to spend a little time with a cooling mint scent.No perfume ingredients are more evocative of beautiful sunny days than orange blossom, neroli and petitgrain. Guerlain’sNerolia Bianca has this trio of loveliness in spades and is, rather unsurprisingly, a delightful rendition of citric-sunshine that is guaranteed to bring a smile to ones face, no matter what the weather. The opening is a swirl of soft green: watercolour-like leaves fronted by icy, delicate mint, supported by a few lemon drops, and squeaky-clean lily-of-the-valley. For the first few minutes, I get a sliiight chewing gum¹ / toothpaste association – quite ununsual, if very refreshing. If you don’t love the idea of smelling like you’ve just brushed your teeth, however… don’t give up on this eau de toilette just yet!

Much like Pamplelune and Herba Fresca, Mandarine Basilic is one of the veterans within the Aqua Allegoria collection. Debuting in the summer of 2007, this particular take on citrus plays on the idea of sweet vs savoury, pairing the conflicting notes of orange and basil together in a tasty, yet wearable nod to Italian cuisine. As to ancillary matters,the version of the bee bottle that Guerlain uses for this Aqua Allegoria range is very nice. I like the golden metal honeycomb added in place of the traditional bees. Each year Guerlain adds to the collection but these new additions, like all good things, are always ephemeral, with some staying for the long haul, whilst others only grace the world with their presence for a short period of time, with some simply lasting one season. As it stands, the Aqua Allegoria collection is made up of five perfumes; Pamplelune& Herba Fresca (Mathilde Laurent; 1999), Mandarine Basilic (Marie Salamagne; 2007), Nerolia Bianca (Thierry Wasser; 2013) and Limon Verde (Thierry Wasser; 2014). These refreshing, floral and citrus perfumes make for a summer-centric compilation of scent that is constructed for the warmer seasons, but seems simultaneously perfect for any time and any occasion.

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Things become much greener as Mandarine Basilic treads carefully into the dry down. Green tea, with ever-so-subtle hints of jasmine, provides a delicately bitter underpinning for the freshly squeezed orange juice and rustically ripped basil leaves. The opposing forces of the sweet and the savoury clash harmoniously (an oxymoron, I know) all the way through, rubbing each other up the wrong way to make for a perfume that is a bright, light and so utterly right. It’s quite a thrill ride, believe me. In 1999, Guerlain broke from their rich and opulent tradition, and launched the Aqua Allegoria collection – a series of perfumes that complimented, rather than compromised the heritage of the brand. Intended as an affordable, entry-level line of nature-inspired fragrances, these olfactory ditties take from the natural world; explore photorealism and present unusual twists on familiar ingredients. These are casual masterpieces that feel effortless in their complexity and beautiful in their simplicity. Is there anything more refreshing than the zingy bitterness of grapefruit? The answer to this question is simple – there isn’t. Whilst I personally cannot abide the taste of this acidic fruit (I’m in the minority, I know), I do adore the smell and am also firmly of the opinion that a truly grapefruit-esque perfume is a rather marvelous thing, indeed. The trouble is though, that most grapefruit fragrances are nothing like the real thing, often simply showcasing the polite and easy-to-like tones of orange rather than the altogether more astringent melody of grapefruit. In the opening, Mandarine Basilic is all about orange, and it plays up to the juicy feel of the fruit, bringing to mind a picture of great big oranges practically bursting with fragrant juice. After the initial blast of citrus subdues, the herbal intensity of the basil becomes more prominent and gives the impression of a vast platter of fruits and herbs, ready to be consumed. To imagine what Herba Fresca smells like take the accord of a Moroccan mint tea and add a handful of crushed green leaves. Mint is the central note of Herba Fresca, which is what gives the fragrance its cooling illusion. However, the familiar peppermint bite is mixed with green tea and floral notes for a mild, soft focus effect. A sprinkling of sugar tones down the herbal sharpness further.