Lilo Stitch Eyeglass Case, Portable Travel Zipper Sunglasses Case Glasses Bag Guard Set

£9.9
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Lilo Stitch Eyeglass Case, Portable Travel Zipper Sunglasses Case Glasses Bag Guard Set

Lilo Stitch Eyeglass Case, Portable Travel Zipper Sunglasses Case Glasses Bag Guard Set

RRP: £99
Price: £9.9
£9.9 FREE Shipping

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TIP: If you want to make a smaller case use ½ inch (1.3cm) and you’ll need to trim it. Trim the seam allowance so its neat, grading it, which means leaving the outer fabric slightly wider than the lining. This allows for a neat finish. STEP 4: Press

to assure a good fit of lining, use a larger seam allowance when sewing lining. The seam allowance should gradually increase from the usual ¼" where the lining meets the outer fabric to ½" at the sides and bottom. Step 10 - Turn And Topstitch Notch and trim the fabric on the seam allowance for easier turning, then turn right side out. Press and close the opening in the lining. What I also love about this diy glasses case is the size. So handy - it's something that will store not just the regular glasses but also your big sunglasses, or even a smartphone! Throw it into your purse and carry anywhere with you! You need less than one fat quarter of fabric altogether - use matching or contrasting fabric scraps! I used three different prints from the Lucy June collection designed by Lila Tueller for Riley Blake Designs (it's gorgeous!) and added one single piece of hardware - a magnetic snap. Super happy about how it turned out! Supplies I wanted my eyeglasses pouch to be generously sized, so it will fit any size eyeglasses and especially, will be large enough for ANY size sunglasses. And I wanted it to have a decently stable outer layer for protection. And I wanted it not flat. Also, it had to be pretty! What do you say, have I succeeded?To make it easier, I first trace the pattern piece on the foam, then flip it and trace the other half - see image #1 above. Cut out using scissors. Cut out the darts too. You’re nearly there. It just remains to neatly close the opening on the lining seam with your machine or hand stitch it closed using a ladder stitching or a slip stitching STEP 11: Finish the sunglasses case If this is a concern you can solve it by sewing a tiny piece of Velcro to the inside of the top of the sunglasses case on either side. An alternative solution is to sew a button, centrally place, on the outside of the front of the case – that’s the bit with the angled side, near the top. Take a piece of colored twine or braid and make a loop that you place inside the seam so that when you sew the top piece together it will turn outwards when you turn the fabric. Bring the loop down to hook over the button.

If you’re workings with some lightweight fabrics, you’ll need to add a little structure to your main fabric. Place the main fabric on top of the bumpy side of the interfacing and press with an iron from both sides. Now take that long straight seam that meets the angled seam and pin down the lining and outer for just one inch, then stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and trim. This creates the convenient spot on the finished item where you can reach in to get your eyeglasses out of the DIY eyeglass case. Place the lining fabric on top so the wrong side is facing you. Stitch the seam at 1/4″ seam allowance.Now take the two compound pieces and place them right sides together. Make sure to align the seams perfectly, especially the ones where the lining fabric and the main fabric meet , and on darts. a loosely rounded flap that closes with a magnetic snap (I will guide you if you haven't installed a magnetic snap yet. Easy, I pinky promise!)

Now it’s time to push the lining into the outer fabric case and make sure they fit snugly into each other and lie flat before giving them the final press. And there you are – one eyeglasses or sunglasses case done and dusted. And one thing more. It wasn't planned, but boy does it make even better: friends, I've just noticed my phone fits in here, so you can easily use this pattern for eyeglass case to make a cute cell phone wallet too! Place the outer fabric on top of the lining fabric right sides facing. Stitch the fabric pieces together along the whole length of the angled side 1/4″ (6mm) from the edge. Trim and notch the rounded edge for easier turning, being careful to not snip into the stitching lines. NOTE: do not trim the (unfinished) straight edge. There is a faster way to cut the fabrics for this DIY glasses case. I’d like to cut all three pieces at once so I place the interfacing with the bumpy side up, then place the outer fabric with right side on top and then I place the lining with it’s wrong side up.

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OR do you want a printable copy of the WHOLE tutorial? Scroll to the bottom of this tutorial for more details! Step 2 - Cut Your Fabric Cutting Directions Bring the FRONT pieces together by placing the front pieces with right sides together and sewing along the top (slightly curved) edge. Like before, use a ¼" seam allowance. LINING: For the lining try to choose a thin polar fleece, or fabric with a brushed finish. Even a soft cotton will work. This just give some padding to protect the lenses. Make sure the colors for the outer and lining work well together. Open out the fabric so you have two long rectangles, and place them on top of each other so the right sides face each other (like you do if you are making a zipper flat bottom bag).

Now you are going to take that flat seam and stitch a neat line on the lining side next to the original line you stitch. This is called under-stitching and will prevent fraying, hold the seam in place, also giving the edge a neat finish when turned. If you are anything like me you keep hopping into a car with your sunnies on, then find you have nowhere safe to put them when you enter a shopping mall. I’ve scratched so many pairs of eyeglasses and sunglasses by shoving them into a purse, or leaving them lying around at home or in the car. This nifty DIY glasses case is just what everyone needs. All you need to do is get my free sunglasses or eyeglass case pattern and carve out 15 minutes of your schedule. Pin in place or use sewing clips to prevent shifting, then sew around using a ¼" seam allowance, leaving a hole in the lining for turning. Also, it's good to taper the lining by a quarter of an inch. I'll explain it in a bit: Less than a fat quarter of fabric (less than 50 x 55 cm) - I used 3 different prints from the Lucy June collection Open out your seam and press. It really is worth taking the extra few seconds to press as you go along as it makes such a difference to the finish.Cut the pattern pieces for the outer casing, the lining and the fusible interfacing – you’ll need one of each. As you’ll see on the eyeglasses case pattern piece one side is side is angled slightly. So you’ll need to cut the lining mirrored.



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