Wash all over with a Contrast Basilicanum Grey, super thinned down with Contrast Medium. This should resemble more of a traditional shade wash than the usual Contrast coat, our goal here to provide a nice undershade for the rest of the model. For the chipping, take a fine piece of sponge and use it to dab Rhinox Hide on the sharpest corners. The foremost of these is the Path of the Dark Eldar trilogy, written by Andy Chambers and consisting of Renegade, Incubus, and Archon. These books chronicle the exploits of Asdrubael Vect as he consolidates power in Commorragh.

That pretty much covers it. I’m happy with the final model and it wasn’t nearly as much time to paint as I expected it might take. The armor plates get edge highligting with Sotek Green, completing the classic Drukhari look, albeit with a more blue tint. And there you have it. Add any further small details you may want, but they’re all ready to go slay the enemies of the Emperor.Your imagination (or maybe sanity) is the limit when it comes to how intense you want to be with these new paints. The new White Scar Primer makes colors like Doomfire Magenta, Frostheart, Magmadroth Orange, and Striking Scorpion Green especially eye searing. You can also use a bright silver base to create a metallic or slightly iridescent surface, as is the case with the Blue Horror on the left. It was painted using the same colors as the Hydra Tyrannid but a bright silver drybrush was applied in between the application of Stormfiend blue and the Luxion purple.

The banner I went for a flayed skin attempt with Contrast Guilliman Flesh and Contrast Blood Angel Red on each side. The plan being it should be easy to apply transfers at a later date. The banner pole is Contrast Wyldwood Wash the gold with Gloss Reikland Fleshshade. Necro Gold is a somewhat greenish gold, and the red tones in the fleshshade warm up the colors while retaining the darker tone. Once the models are all grey scale, I gave them several very thin coats of Vallejo Game Air Gory Red Step 3: Stipple Citadel Ushabti Bone over Zandri Dust bands. I did slightly less of these than in the previous Zandri Dust layer. Prime everything in Citadel Wraithbone (I used the rattle can, but (air)brushing it on would probably be fine too). Step 1: Base coatsMentally trace where on the model light rays would fall as they radiate away from the lantern in straight lines There is a lot more of this on your jetbikes. Here only the gauntlets are leather. I used VMC Cavalry brown, making sure to avoid the red cloth on the underside of his forearms and the gold detailing. I then washed the leather with Agrax Earthshade.

However, I could see it being useful for if you’re painting spells or perhaps even glowing blue eyes if they were detailed enough to have distinct recesses. It is, as the name suggests, highly useful for painting ice bases. The following is an update from a simple ice base recipe I made years ago. Drybrush the darker metal areas with Ironbreaker, and highlight the lighter areas with Scale 75 Heavy Metal. mix of Basalt Grey and Vallejo Game Color Stonewall Grey. This was put mostly in the top half of areas and more upward facing angles. (center right)Thin down Citadel Druchii Violet with Citadel Lahmian Medium 1:4 (1 part shade to 4 parts medium), and add a drop or two of water too. Cover the Wraithbone primer (which should just be the skin at this point) and the recesses of the silver areas. I saved some of this mixture in an empty pot for other projects, much like my Nurgle flesh wash. The steel was done with a base coat of Citadel Leadbelcher, an all-over layer of Nuln Oil, then a final edge highlight of Vallejo Game Color Silver. Because the surface tension (I think) is higher, the shade pulls away from the edges and vertical surface and does a better job of concentrating in the recesses. This left my edges alone and I was able to move on without any touchups!