The shoe did break in over a few weeks to become more pliable, but the dimensions of the shoe remained consistent. The partially lined suede microfiber upper and generously padded tongue were pleasant on my overly sensitive skin right out of the box. A common problem with synthetic climbing shoes is that they tend to start smell BAD. For any climbing shoes, I would suggest bagging yourself a pair of boot bananasto fight the funk. The Verdict

I think this is a win, especially considering in the world of climbing shoes most people won’t be able to keep their shoes on for half that time. In this Five Ten Anasazi Lace review, we will look at some of the standout features of these shoes, and what that means in terms of performance. Toe BoxThe upgraded version of the Pinks boasts some new features compared to the old model, including an improved heel and a sole plastered with Five Ten’s famous C4 rubber. This shoe is in its element serving up technical footwork on vertical terrain.Unlike the Blancos, the Pinks have a medium-stiff sole that facilitates all-around use in your gym or local crag.

Pulling from Five-Ten's iconic heritage and legendary range of climbing shoes, the NIAD VCS is the new re-imagined version of the ever-popular and renowned Five-Ten Anasazi. Designed for all-round performance, the NIAD VCS sits comfortably on all disciplines of climbing, seldom-seen is a shoe that performs so well trad-climbing but is also relied upon by world-cup level competition climbers. In this honest Five Ten Anasazi VCSreview, I will talk you through some of the best and worst features of this hugely popular Anasazi model. Let’s get started! Toe Box Soft enough for smearing, stiff enough to edge, combined with great toe jams and a precise big toe this is a great all-around shoe for beginners and advanced climbers alike.I think Five Ten have found the sweet spot between comfort and performance with this mid-priced shoe. Having to buy one pair of shoes is a persuasive economic argument for any occasional or all-around climber. Something I need to get off my chest before I get into the nitty gritty here: I am a La Sportiva Fanboy. There, I said it; since the mid-nineties I have owned (almost) nothing but Sportiva shoes and they have always just felt right on my foot. The following review is stinking with bias, hearsay, conjecture and malice. *ahem* Further Confession of Bias: With regards to sizing the NIAD VCS use Five Ten's new sizing model: wear your shoe size. Sounds crazy doesn't it? You just wear your street shoe size. I think it's great: for a comfortable fit wear exactly your street shoe size, for performance go down a size and for all-day comfort wear a half size up. I wear mine in a UK 9.5 (and my trainers in a 10) and they're tight enough for technical climbing but still comfortable. I have worn a few different pairs of Five Tens since they implemented this new system and I have to say it works really well and seems to produce consistently-sized shoes, which is something that many brands seem to struggle with (including Five Ten in the past).After extended periods of time standing in the Anasazi Pro, I almost feel as if I have to stand bow-legged to compensate for the loss I feel of side-to-side balance, not to mention the pain from the pressure on the tops of my big toes that I’m still not used to after all these months. I ran around the house looking at all the shoes I owned; none of them are nearly this symmetrical. “Welp. Unless I rest most of my weight on my heels, chilling on a ledge for hours is probably out.” I said. The cat was nonplussed.

On the whole, always hard to tell after just a few sessions but I’d say it’s not much different to the original Anasazis (other than the sizing). Then again, I thought the same about the new Anasazis, which some people didn’t like apparently. May be my footwork is so bad that I can’t tell the difference 🤣 Over several months (pre-COVID) I have traveled all over the US with this New and Improved version of one of the most ubiquitous shoes in climbing. From granite to sandstone, limestone to basalt and a whole lotta plastic, I’ve tried to give myself every opportunity to be right, which I happen to value more than is probably healthy. Here’s my experience: Feels Like the First Time (Blatant Foreigner Reference):

Details

It was instantly comfortable enough to wear for an entire one-hour assault on a slightly overhanging granite boulder. I continued to wear the shoe at each boulder without taking them off otherwise, for a whole day.

Asymmetric design puts power over the big toe, making it easier to climb seams and smudge off small edges The low asymmetrical profile and the rounded toe box of the NIAD put the shoe’s tip – the focal point of its power – centralized between the first and second toe. This makes for an interesting contrast, as most ‘performance’ shoes opt for a more asymmetrical shape, that places the point over the big toe. Once I got to the gym, it didn’t take long to realize the Anasazi Pro is not really a Pro performer in anything in particular, at least not enough in a way that is reasonable to market. Hot take, I know. I wish I could say I was impressed or discouraged immediately with any specific outcome, but it was a little more nuanced than that and really depended on what I was doing. In my mind a Pro-influenced or designed shoe would have pro features baked in and apparent, here the additions to the old design seem like a well-executed afterthought. has always touted the Anasazi line as a bit of a Swiss Army knife. With each iteration of the Anasazi over the past few decades, 5.10 has expanded the quiver into some pretty specific types and styles of climbing; each with its own bit of southwestern Native American motif that, I dunno, makes you hear the desert wind or some other form of cultural appropriation? Need that all-day shoe for yarding investment bankers up multi-pitch romps? Grab the Guides and get comfy. A shoe for hard, deep jams? Grab the Lace ups and send that splitter. Oh, so you’re a hardbruh in need of some tight technical footwork? Slap on a Blanco and crush that proj. But there has always been this bit of marketing hiding between the lines suggesting that no matter how specific the model was for ‘your style of climbing’ that the Anasazi (fill in the blank) was a great, ‘all-around’ shoe.

Pros

If you are used to the old Anasazi when it was manifactured in the US then we suggest going a whole size up for the same fit** The NIAD VCS is also available in a low-volume version: the teal 'women's' version of the Anasazi was always popular so it's great to see that it's received the same update. Materials The Anasazi VCS– a classic, durable shoe that is part of Five Ten’s famous Anasazi family and looks like something straight out of a ’90s climbing magazine. Another unmissable addition to the VCS is the toe patch, an almost essential requirement for any modern performance shoe. This triangular-shaped patch sits over the big toe and instantly upgrades the shoe’s ability when it comes to bouldering and gym climbing. Directly underneath the rubber, in the interior of the shoe, the toe patch is lined with a higher-friction material, which helps toe hooking feel super secure. If gnarly bat hangs aren’t your thing, that’s not a problem, the new toe patch is significantly smaller than the full coverage of the Anasazi Pro, so it allows the toe box to remain flexible and unintrusive when not in use. The Heel