For my Great Unclean One there was a layer of fatty tissue around a big wound. I took a chance and painted the Poisonous Cloud which is a very light yellow-green and washed with the Carroburg Crimson (or maybe it was the Fleshshade. I should write things down). The result was a very good looking fatty-pus layer, or at least I think it came out well. I also dry brushed some of the Dechala Lilac around the wound to give it a bit of rot and bruising look. Instead, you’ll want to lean towards maniples that let you swap out a Warhound. Venator and Ferrox are both excellent choices that still allow you take advantage of their maniple trait. In a Venator, taking a second Reaver gives you two options for your free shot whenever a Warhound collapses a target’s shield, though you still only get to fire with one of the Titans each time it activates. However, having a pair of them gives you more choices on what weapons to fire with as well as better coverage of the board – it’s much harder to hide from two melta cannon Reavers than just one. It’s also useful for managing heat if you take a volcano cannon, since you can alternate which Reaver gets the free shot to keep your reactors under control.

Emma: Gutrippa Flesh is terrific and will save a lot of time when painting Kruleboyz or Gretchin as it gives an excellent base colour and shade that suits these boyz down to the ground. It’s really great for camo cloth too! Emma: For the Tyranids, there are lots of variations of fleshy parts for their symbiotic weapons. The Barbgaunts ’ bio-cannons get a Khorne Red basecoat and a highlight of Tuskgor Fur , and I used Gal Vorbak Red for the mouth and talons of the Psychophage . For the luminous brain matter of the Neurotyrant and Neuroloids, I applied some thinned Frostheart for a creepy blue glow. While the skin is wet.Wash in neat Citadel Carroberg Crimson over the claws to give a cheap gradient effect. I repeat this a couple of times to darken the claws. It’s also helpful to start by undercoating your miniatures in a colour that will save you the most effort. We used the Citadel Spray primer version of Macragge Blue for the Ultramarines, Grey Seer for the Apothecary Biologis, and Wraithbone for the Tyranids. We also used pots of matching Base paint colours to tidy up mistakes later on – because we all make mistakes.Firstly, I want to prime everything with Citadel Spray Wraithbone, but to ensure I get the right colour and finish, I’ll then paint everything again with Wraithbone from the pot, which I’ll also need to tidy up any mistakes. Orange: Troll Slayer Orange. This bright orange hue is perfect for adding pops of color to miniatures and can be used to create a bold contrast with the rich purple of Magos Purple. And here we are! Deamonettes attached to the mirror and some mud on the base to match my army. Before someone goes pointing out that I mis-assembled part of the front left coil of the mirror, yes, I’m aware. It just goes to show that you should always take your time with assembly and clean up because you never know what level of effort you’re going to put in. Better to be safe than sorry. Wash all over with a Contrast Basilicanum Grey, super thinned down with Contrast Medium. This should resemble more of a traditional shade wash than the usual Contrast coat, our goal here to provide a nice undershade for the rest of the model.

Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look). And there’s more – all Citadel Colour Shades have been reformulated to make them even better, seven more have been created, which we’ll be taking a look at next week. Plus, we’ve also perfected white spray paint, making it easier than ever to undercoat your miniatures. A new alternative to Volupus Pink , Doomfire Magenta is lighter and brighter, opening up new avenues for painting pinkish tones. The War Griffons favor an aggressive play style, which shows in their Legio and Personal Traits. Let’s explore how to make the most of these: Prepare basic fleshtone mix from Slaanesh Grey, Cadian Fleshtone, and Ushabti Bone (5:3:1). I made a whole batch of this in a dropper bottle for all of my first to third generation Genestealers, so that the tone would be consistent across units. Hereafter I’ll refer to this as Genestealer Flesh Mix.Next I start hitting the pustules with Averland Sunset. I want these to be bright on the final model but I’m gonna cover them with Nurgle’s Rot, which will tint them green so I need them to be bright yellow. I add a dot of Flash Gitz Yellow to them as well. Blood Angels Red and Flesh Tearers Red gave painters new ways to paint reds, and Baal Red opens up new possibilities thanks to its more saturated colour.