However, when you have a sharpener, you can easily hone the points on those dull bits and extend their life. This means you won’t constantly have to buy new ones. This is also better for the environment because you’re throwing away your dull bits. I scribed a fiducial mark across the face of the pin vise between the chamfered corners. This is adequate for aligning by eye the flutes of all bits in the covered range. An optical aid, similar to that built for the Four Facet Sharpener, proved unnecessary so I have an extra Lucite lens awaiting some future project -- a peril of mass production to avoid extra setups.

Based on my description of building this 4 Facet Sharpener and the article in HSM I hear from others who would like to build one. I try to answer questions that arise and aren't covered by my article or the above description and generally stay in touch with other builders, some of whom keep me abreast of their progress.The pictures illustrate variations on the original design, where the underlying concept is preserved. It is straightforward to fit the motion control to a specific motor and mounting plate. However, in replacing my original motor the minimum work approach was to place the new motor so the wheel has the same relation to the motion control as it had with the original motor. The 94071 wheel, even with the rubber feet removed, is higher than with my original motor. So, I mounted it using a scrap of angle iron to which the motor base sans feet was bolted. The angle iron was trimmed to fit the space available. Spacers were added under the angle to set the wheel height to match the original. I had to remove the holders for the tool rests and reverse the motor on its base so the wheel rotates CCW and the switch is accessible.Once you have followed these steps, look down the drill from above to make sure the drill bit is centered correctly. You might need to repeat the process a few times to properly align the center. Here’s a handy video to provide a visual aid for the process from start to finish. This model is very similar to the Drill Doctor DD750X. The main differences are that it is only slightly more restrictive on the size drill bits that it can accommodate, and it has two set angles rather than adjustable angles. However, most drill bits you’re likely to come across will be compatible with this sharpener, so it’s not much of an inconvenience unless you work with non-standard bits. In most instructional articles or videos, the person talks about sharpening their drill bit at a 60-degree angle. While this is confusing given the general angles discussed above, the simple answer is that 60 degrees is roughly half of 118 degrees. They are sharpening one side of the bit point at a time.

Alan Grimes fixed the grinder to the base and made the overall table assembly movable, a different method of aligning the wheel to the trunnion center. He reports excellent results with 6 facet drills. The woodwork on the grinder base and alignment jig are very nicely done making this unit a showpiece. Drill bits become dull with use, and thus they become ineffective. Every bit is worth sharpening once it loses its sharp point. This is far better than just throwing them out and buying new ones, especially, if you use the same bits over and over again. What’s the best angle for sharpening bits? The sharpener will have no issues re-grinding chisels and plane blades up to 50-millimetre wide. You can adjust its bevel between 15 and 50 degrees, meaning you should be able to work with/access just about any sharp tool in your toolbox. My original infeed screw used an Allen wrench for adjustments. I made an extended infeed screw with a spring soldered in the middle so it wouldn't be easily damaged. Works well, makes infeed adjustment more convenient. However, if you want a sharpener that’s more portable, you might want to consider a manual one that uses your power drill to drive it. This means that if you have no access to electricity and you’re faced with dull drill bits, you can still sharpen them and get the job done.

Drill Bit Sharpener Plans

Why we like it: This portable sharpener is ideal for those who are not based in a workshop or who want to sharpen drill bits and other small tools in the field. While the Work Sharp is marketed as a knife sharpener, it is essentially just a small benchtop belt grinder and works the same way as other grinders like the DEWALT Bench Grinder and the WEN 4276 Bench Grinder. Grinders are multifunctional sharpeners making them a fantastic option for those who want to maintain a variety of tools.

This is also the best way to sharpen masonry drill bits that have a slightly different point shape to other drill bits. You’ll find that the best drill sharpener will use a diamond wheel. These wheels are heavy-duty and can easily handle tough carbide bits. Alternatively, if you use a lot of carbide bits, you can look for a bench grinder attachment. This means that you can make sure that your grinder uses a diamond wheel. The Stability of the Sharpener Ensure that you wear gloves when you’re sharpening your bits. This will help you avoid any injuries to your fingers, especially from small splinters of shaved-off metal. Why we like it: This grinder is significantly cheaper than most other grinders and benchtop drill bit sharpeners and comes with a handy work light.

Jim Schroeder is a talented and energetic machinist, having completed a Brooks cutter grinder and now a 4 facet drill sharpener. It works well and he expects to add the point splitter shortly. The ball bearings for the traverse table work well but require frequent cleaning of grit from the table to ensure free movement. Why we like it: This water-cooled grinder runs at a slower speed which prevents overheating when sharpening and allows you to get a finer edge on your tools.

There are a variety of drill bit sharpeners available on the market. If you’ve never used one before, the choice can be quite confusing. To save you hours of research, we’ve done the hard work for you and provided you with a rundown of the 7 best drill bit sharpeners available on the market today. I replaced the motor with a HF 94071 (discontinued); seems OK, the ball bearings work better than the plain bearing in my original motor. It is clearly more powerful -- grinds faster but makes a little more noise because it's higher speed. So far, this motor handles the repeated start/stop cycles needed when sharpening drills. Although the label claims a 1/2" arbor, the measured diameter of the arbor on my unit is 0.394" = 1cm. John Baron made the table wider so the left table support is outside the wheel. He used ER16 collets rather than the original ER20's. The motor is reversible, accounting for the two switches on the top of the box. Lots of little differences from the original design but it keeps the original concept where the drill center is on the trunnion pivot line so it works fine. He also made the jig to set the drill extension from the collet and the lips horizontal Ron Behrmann is in South Africa (no Harbor Freight there) so he used a different grinder for power. Mostly aluminum, excellent machining especially the knurling. He used a different method to set the relief angles to discrete values, as pictured here. A general rule of thumb is, if you are wondering whether you should be wearing safety equipment, the answer is yes. Using a Bench GrinderI researched and tinkered with building drill sharpeners for over 5 years prior to building this sharpener. The material below on using drills is partly from experience and partly from things I read during my research that made sense to me and I hope makes sense to others... An alignment system this secure means that you will have no problems maintaining accurate bit geometry without damaging your tools' integrity of your tools. Most of the thrust required for drilling with a chisel point drill is used to extrude material in front of the chisel since the chisel can't cut. This can force the drill off line causing the hole to drift. Reducing the required thrust results in straighter holes. While 4 facet points reduce thrust slightly, the material is still extruded. Split points are more effective in reducing thrust because the web area cuts rather than extrudes; this is also more efficient so it reduces heat produced and prolongs drill life. (See Moltrecht pg. 91-93, especially Fig 4-13) Infeed moves the drill along its axis relative to the trunnion line to allow grinding more material from the drill (on planes parallel to the previously ground facets). Development