The blooms have a natural wax coating that gives them a glow and helps them to stay looking beautiful for longer. Truly a divine plant! 6. Burnt Amber Calla Lily Lay out the flowers as you plan to glue them in place. Mix the glue and get busy attaching the pieces together. Allow to dry for 24 hours before setting out in the garden.

There aren’t many naturally copper-colored flowers but we’ll have a look at a few examples. There is also the option to burnish flowers in copper. Photo Disclaimer – Images used in this article are owned by the respective individuals, artists, or other parties who post on their private social media accounts. These images only serve for inspiration and cannot be copied (images or the designs) for personal use. See Footer for more details. See here for more details. 1. Copper Iris (Iris Fulva)

A cultivar of the Pompom, or Ball Dahlia, this richly-coloured flower has rounded, fully double, blooms. The petals are partly incurved. Irises grow from rhizomes. They produce blade-like leaves. The Copper Iris produces flowers of a coppery orange or reddish-brown hue. Each flower has three petal-like sepals that either spread wide or arch downwards. These lovely fall flowers have long-lasting hardiness and versatility. They look gorgeous in a garden and also, due to their resilience and strength, are great in corsages, bouquets and flower arrangements. 3. Copper Thistle Right! Now that you've worked your way through that rather long list of tools, we can move on to the materials you'll need. Now, flip the hammer over so you're using the crosspeen head. Begin to strike the edges of the petals, to create a series of radial indents that all point towards (or thereabouts) the centre of the petal. This gives each petal a nice texture. Don't worry about texturing the centre of each petal, as it won't be seen. It's important to be brave here and strike quite forcefully - you're looking for something that looks like this:

Grab your crosspeen hammer, and turn it over so you're using the flat (regular) side. Using firm, regular strikes, hammer the edges of each petal thin, on both sides - you want to make them so that they can be easily curled at the edges. It doesn't matter that much if you mark the copper, as we're just about to start texturing it. For the square pieces, make cuts from the centre of each side towards the centre that come to about 5mm from the hole. Much closer, and the copper will break at these points - any less, and it'll be hard to shape the petals. If you're using good tinsnips, the copper will naturally bend up, so you get something like this: Of course, there are also many flowers crafted from copper should you desire more long-lasting copper floral renditions. The naturally copper flowers we’ve seen would undoubtedly burnish a garden in a coppery sheen of joy! Editor’s Recommendations Propane Torch/forge/brazing hearth- a heat source, capable of annealing copper. You can get away with using a cooks blowtorch or a gas hob, but I invested in this as I do lots of metalwork at home. Although saffron in name, rather than copper, there’s definitely a copper tint to this bloom. It would certainly look good with other copper hued blooms.Copper is very expensive, so “measure twice and cut once” to avoid wasting any of this precious metal. Measure the cut pattern on the die, then measure the copper and mark your cuts. Cut the copper to fit the width of the die with little extra to waste. RELATED: In For a Penny: Guide to Copper Trees (inc. 22 Different Types) 16. Copper Beauty Cymbidium Orchid This is a tall, bearded, Iris in a simply divine hue. The ruffled edges of the petals and sepals and the coloring, as well as the absolutely gorgeous design of the Iris blossom, make this a scintillating plant to own! 18. Austrian Copper Rose

Having cleaned your blanks to your satisfaction, take your first square, and thread it onto the stem. Take your next one, and repeat, but align it so that it's petals cover the cuts in the square below, and only overlap slightly with the petals below them, like this: Begin by taking your rectangle and folding one of the petals up and around the rivet. It can be very useful to start at the part of the petal that is closest to the stem, and work outwards - that applies for all this shaping. If at any point the metal becomes unworkable, stop - you can't force it. Simply anneal that section of the copper (by tactical application of a blowtorch, for example) and keep going. You really don't want to break one petal now. The Turk’s Head cactus can be identified by the cephalium that protrudes from the top. The copper coloring of the ‘cap’ is why this fascinating plant is included. Brazing rod/brass rod of a smaller diameter, around 4mm - this is for the workaround step. Brass is one of the few metals that's really soft enough to be cut without using a die (but more about that later). You can find this in most hardware/ironmongery type places, or online. Few words before I begin (skip ahead if you want, nothing here's essential): This is my first attempt, ever, at making a guide to a metalworking project (or actually to a project of any sort) - whilst I have guided friends through making things in person, I've never tried to communicate steps just via words and pictures. So this is a new type of challenge for me, and the outcome may not be perfect. That said, I know that I may make steps too complex/it's fairly easy to be misunderstood, so if you do want clarity on a particular step, just comment and I'll do my best to fill you in. This is a fairly simple metalworking project, as there is no welding of any kind involved, which can sometimes dissuade beginners.Tinsnips/jewellers saw/pneumatic press - essentially, something to cut your copper with. I found these to be excellent, but use whatever suits you the best. Calla Lilies are known as representing the ‘magnificence of beauty’ and this Burnt Amber Calla Lily certainly lives up to the reputation. It is simply gorgeous in its sophisticated design and colors. Look at those rich hues and how they blend so well! 7. Saffron Hydrangea

Finally, curl the tops of your petals outwards to expose the texturing you worked on, and crinkle the edges - this step really makes a huge difference. I happen to have the last three things lying around at home or in my school workshop, so I didn't put links as to where I got them from - if you do happen to fund a good source for some, just put it in the comments and I'll add it in. Metalworking file - for removing rough edges and cut marks. Dirt cheap, and ubiquitous at DIY stores.

In the photos, I'm going to be making two roses (to demonstrate the normal method, and the workaround method) so don't worry if what you're doing doesn't match up exactly - though everything should be obvious enough. The photos show the blooms for just one stem so you can see this a bountiful and exuberant plant. It would grace any garden with glory! The rich color looks amazing in darker spaces. 8. Ornamental Pepper The more times you do this, the easier it is to judge when the colour is just right and how long it takes to heat it to that state - practice, and you'll be doing it in no time! There are also three petals that are narrower than the sepals. The sepals and the petals are all copper colored. The sepals are usually a lighter yellow near the base and they don’t have hairs at the base. 2. Copper Cushion Flower