I was stressed too that one or more plugs would snap, that is why I bought the full extraction kit as well. Section 2: Instructions for Integrated Pressure Sensor Glow Plugs Removing the Old Integrated Pressure Sensor Glow Plugs This is a b d of a job but take the right steps and it is doable. Allow for 10 hours in the workshop with access to an airline (FYI I had to swap the connector on mine to work at this self-service garage so consider this). Believe it of not you will find there is a "sweet spot" or angle and pressure to get any given plug out with the impact tool. Seek out this sweet spot! After the old glow plugs have been removed, always clean the thread, the conical seat and the glow plug channel in the cylinder head with suitable tools. Installing the New Glow Plugs

Cars may have become more complex over the years, yet changing your vehicle's glow plugs is, in most cases, still a job that you can handle yourself. Closely examine the glow plug and heater tube surface. A slightly ‘shiny’ appearance indicates the heater tube has been caked by carbon and ‘scuff/swirl’ marks are where the plug has been unscrewed through the carbon. They all came out quite easily. However I did apply the penetrating oil before as I wrote and gave it 2 applications and 2 days to do its work. The instructions that come with the vibro-impact tool say to start with 10 Nm and work your way up to 30 Nm if you have to but not recommended to use 40 Nm. When 2 plugs did not move on 10 Nm and initially neither with 20 Nm I used the vibro-impact tool in the FASTEN direction for a short blast. When I then reversed direction they spun out first very slowly but came out nicely. I'm pretty convinced my clutch is on its last legs so that's the next job so hopefully this will have time to penetrate. Large DHL delivery from AF arrives tomorrow! Before I leave for the airport, hopefully!

Section 2: Instructions for Integrated Pressure Sensor Glow Plugs

And with our different Glow Plugs come different Installation steps to follow. See below for our dedicated installation procedures. First off: Only remove and fit glow plugs using a manual torque wrench. What must I do when the tightening Torque has been reached ? Did my garage have a compressor with the necessary flow rate/ was my laser tool NM reference accurate? i.e. given OP comments, why did I have go raj on my glow plugs to get them out? Maybe effectively I didn't.

Section 1 covers all standard in build Glow Plugs. These are the Standard, Ceramic and Instant Start System Glow Plug. Manually disconnect the electrical connector on each glow plug. Important: when loosening the connector on do this manually, and do not use tools like pliers or similar. I saw very little corrosion on the glow plugs, maybe only a little on the 3rd-5th thread. Could be because of the winter diesel we have in Norway a couple of months each year. The fat bits of the glow plug rails that say left and right go towards the front of the engine! That should save you 30 minutes of faff!First clean the glow plug channel and the thread in the cylinder head to remove oil and combustion products. Then screw in the glow plug by hand. Important: Make sure that no dirt enters the combustion chamber. Easy to access 12 mm hex head to drive the reamer into the hole. Because the head is steel it will allow you to tap on it without damage to the head. Three-phase technology (Type GE glow plugs ) – these glow plugs use three heating phases (pre-heating during ignition, heating during starting and post-heating for approximately 3 minutes after starting) to ensure diesel fuel is burnt more efficiently and quieter, so exhaust gas clouding is reduced by up to 40% during cold starting. They ensure reliable starts, time after time, even when the outside temperature is -30°C. For those of you that consider changing glow plugs on the Tdv6 engine - I just did mine and here's in brief how to: Important: Complete coverage of the plug hexagon head. Please use a torque wrench and note the permissible breaking torque.