This self adhesive high quality liner can maintain shape under pressure yet be flexible enough to trim easily in many areas of the vehicle. It is water and high temperature resistant and flame retardant to UK vehicle standards. I also researched that you needed to measure and cut extra to allow for the bumps, I added about 30 mm to my first measurement, which was slightly too but but better being that way than too short.

I put one full sheet on every single panel inside the van, minus the two panels that I’d since had windows fitted in. For the wall panels, this was 4 on the side panels, 4 on the side doors and 1 on the barn doors, so a total of 9 sheets used. Before I fitted my sound deadening and insulation I opted to have two windows fitted by a professional to my van, I’m glad I did these before the insulation as metal filings can get everywhere and although Sarah did a fab job of cleaning up afterwards it was made more sense to do it this way round. You can see my windows being fitted in my last post on removing the panels and bulkhead (scroll to the bottom to see the windows going in). Your decision on insulation will initially be based on the type of van you have. For example, insulation boards look a great option, however, for a small van conversion it might not be the best choice. You’d need to create a framework to place the insulation boards into (that’s what the ones I’ve watched have done), which then would reduce the headroom available in your van. Once I’d fitted all the thermal liner I then moved onto my second layer of insulation – the recycled plastic loft insulation– I researched a few places, the cheapest option ended up being from B&Q, with an R value of 2.25 m2k/w. There’s a similar product that Dodo Insulation do but this is almost double the price and in my opinion looks the same. For my side panels and four doors I used the same two items for my van insulation – Dodo Mat thermal linerand recycled plastic loft insulation

As soon as I removed all my plywood panels and the bulkhead the noise of the van during normal driving was apparent, all those speed bumps or potholes caused even more noise and rattling of the metal, that was noisy even with the music on. There’s an abundance of information about the best insulation for campervans out there, so a lot of my choices were based researching what was right for me, based on my skill level for fitting and also my budget available.

After the ceiling, walls and doors were done I had 1.5 metres of Dodo Mat thermal linerleft, I could have put additional insulation over some of the gaps, in fact, I did do this with some of the small leftovers. But I had plans for this last bit of insulation – make my own window covers (I’ve already made one so I’ll share how I did it in another post). Floor insulation Dodo Super Liner for the floor insulation The instructions within the box suggest up to 50% of each panel is covered and for areas that have more noise, for example, the wheel arches they have 100% coverage. I adopted this suggestion (sort of).

When treating a typical van or camper you must use a number of different products to achieve an excellent final result. Many camper van projects start life with very limited luxury, however the interior can be improved dramatically with the application of good sound deadening and insulation. Try to keep in a straight line, harder when you go to add the second layer as you want there to be minimal gaps in between. Foam spray looks like it would be great, getting in every single small gap but after watching a few YouTube videos I decided it was not for me, in fact, many people do opt for a professional foam spray job because it’s really that messy.

The low profile nature means that panels will refit easily and cables and ducting can still be routed through side and roof panels. In summary, I bought too much insulation, but I do still want to any some insulation under the headliner and I’m also going to use the ThermaWrapto make some window covers for the front and side windows. And the foil, well, I ended up using that elsewhere. Side panels and doors insulation Thermal liner on side panels and wheel archesAnd when I added the ThermaWrapas part of phase two of the insulation, I bought two rolls of insulation (600 mm x 7.5 m) as I planned to use elsewhere for my window cover. I used about two-thirds of one roll and I also bought two rolls of tape (50 mm x 20 m), I wasn’t sure how much I’d use but it turned out it was less than one roll foil. My original plan for the ceiling insulation was the thermal liner and that was it. But after using the van on a couple of overnight trips I noticed how bad the condensation was in my van particularly on the ceiling where the exposed metal was collecting droplets of water. One of my first jobs on Dennis (my van) was my insulation, firstly, that’s because how it works with a van and secondly, I wanted to do a few trips away and since it was still winter/early spring in the UK I wanted to be warm. For the ceiling of my Vauxhall Vivaro Mk3 I used approximately 2.5-metres of thermal linerinsulation, less because I was filling the panels in the ceiling and not covering the entire area. Total = 2.5 m2 I didn’t do loads of research into this topic, it genuinely seems like everyone who does a van does some form of sound deadening, from those professional companies that have offer a full fit of sound deadening and insulation to all those many DIY van conversion (wannabeexperts) hehe!