The only "hobby" spray I use is Testors Dullcote. I haven't experienced a flatter matte color than that. Our paint scientists haven’t stopped there. White Scar is our best ever white spray paint. It applies smoothly and with absolutely no fuss, giving you the perfect foundation for painting dazzling colours – and it works particularly well with our most vibrant new Contrast paints. Paint makes Warhammer, and gorgeous miniatures are a key part of the Warhammer hobby. There’s nothing better than two epic-looking armies facing off on the battlefield, and we all take great enjoyment in sharing our proudest paint jobs on the internet. To help you keep creating incredible armies and jaw-dropping models, Citadel Colour are massively expanding the Contrast range, improving the range of amazing Shade paints, and creating the smoothest and brightest ever white spray – the best just got better. Red Armor Shading: Nuln Oil stippled and splotched loosely over lower areas, along recesses, undersides of armor. A second coat of Nuln Oil for a few darker splotches in shade area. Red Armor Highlights

Transfers – I’ll keep this brief as plenty has been written here already; I get all my sets from Mighty Brush and do the following: Gloss varnish the whole thing. While the acrylic inks dry fairly glossy, they’re a pretty fragile coat that you want to add some protection to. Kroxigor Scales or Luxion Purple are perfect for painting the warp-touched daemons of Tzeentch in all their chromatic splendour, while Imperial Fist Yellow or Striking Scorpion Green will give the Scions of the Flame access to a kaleidoscopic inferno – let your imagination run wild! Now for the finishing touches. A Flesh Tearer should be blood-stained so I drop some Blood for the Blood God on his chainsword and some drops on the base to make him suitably stained. The base is Astrogranite drybrushed with Celestra Grey and then some Valhallan Blizzard and tufts of Army Painter static grass on top of that. I’m very happy with how this guy turned out and may paint more of these in the future if I can settle on a faster way to do the shoulder pad icons. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Some people argue that primers have extra things put in that make them primers, but it's not necessarily true, primer doesn't have a strict definition and can mean different things to different companies. If a company advertises a paint as a primer, it just means they think it's good for laying down an undercoat in whatever circumstance they are advertising it, it doesn't necessarily mean it has any special additives or formulation.

With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work. GW's current line of spray paints use a very strong solvent, they stink to high heaven way worse than the GW sprays I used a decade or so ago. I haven't tried to strip any of my models sprayed with the current line of GW sprays with alcohol, but they won't scratch off the surface of the plastic easily using a finger nail (though you can mar the surface texture of them).

new paints is a lot of colour to cover, so we’ve split the range into four simple categories to help you get an idea of what they look like. These new colours run the gamut from bright and bold to grimy and eerie – whether you’re painting a tank turret or a raging Endless Spell, there’s a pot here for you. Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash. If you want to see this process in more detail I’d recommend watching Cult of Paint’s excellent tutorial on preshading via their YouTube channel.The Citadel Colour experts have spent many months researching, developing, testing – and painting! – with our Shade range to find out how to make them even better than they already are. The result of all of this hard work is a total reformulation of all of the Shade paints you know and love – and the creation of seven new Shades. Need to paint some solid Space Marine armour? Hues like Baal Red and Bad Moon Yellow will make short work of saturated ceramite for any Chapter. Or, if you’ve got your eyes on a Hedonites of Slaanesh war host, Doomfire Magenta will give you the luxurious robes you need to satiate the Lord of Pleasure himself. The improvement in formula, and the proliferation that ensued, of two-in-one paints heavily contributes to the blurring of the line between primers & paints. However, at the very core of it, primer is polymers suspended in solvent, while paints are pigments that are suspended in mediums, which in turn are suspended in solvent. Two-in-one paints are ones that typically use polymers used in primers as the medium to suspend the pigments in. So, colored primers are a type of colored spray paint, but not all colored spray paints can be said to be colored primers. Just don’t ask what the Citadel Colour team had to offer the Golden Demon for the arcane knowledge of this unique spray…

Mortarion Grime is a lovely shade of yellowy filth that’s perfect for weathering war machines and dirtying grizzled behemoths. Tyran Blue and Berserker Bloodshade offer new ways to shade reds and blues that are more vivid than our existing hues, while Soulblight Grey is great for shading pale paint schemes.I hate greys but I love greys... I own far too many greys because it's so hard to guess what a grey will look like until you've painted it on a model (in terms of is it slightly warmish, slightly coolish, slightly purplish, slightly greenish, etc). I usually buy a grey, paint it, decide it's not what I wanted and it gets thrown in my pile-of-paints-I-barely-use, lol. At first I thought you were looking for a non- GW source, then I read that and worried if GW had discontinued Grey Seer. The Space Wolves, known for their distinctive blue-grey armor, can also benefit from the use of Grey Seer – Spray. By using this primer as a base, the painter can focus on highlighting and shading the armor, rather than worrying about the base color.

Grey Seer is just a light neutral grey, so if you're not hell bent on a perfect match then any light neutral grey should probably do the job. I think most of the other citadel light greys aren't neutral. Administratum Grey perhaps, but that's a bit darker. At this stage I’m doing more red highlight as well, doing edge highlights on the red with Wazdakka Red. I also cover the eyes, doing them in a gemstone style using Warpstone Glow shaded with Coelia Greenshade and Nuln Oil and highlight with a spot of Moot Green. Enamel based spray primers offer all of that and more, and are under half the price if you buy off brand like the one I mentioned. Not only have all of the existing Shades been reformulated – during the process of refining these recipes, the Citadel Colour technicians were inspired to create seven entirely new paints.* While the worlds of Warhammer are littered with incandescent energy weapons and boldly-coloured robes, they’re also home to pallid ghouls and ethereal entities that can discorporate in the blink of an eye.

Step 6. Edge Highlights

As a Warhammer 40K enthusiast and experienced painter, I can recommend several armies that can be painted using Grey Seer – Spray. This primer is an excellent choice for creating a base coat on a range of factions, from the Imperium to the Chaos forces. You could try the ones I mentioned, Vallejo White Grey or Neutral Grey, but he former would need to be darkened slightly if you want a match for Grey Seer and the latter may need to be lightened, I'm not sure on the VMC Neutral Grey, if you want I can dig through my hobby bin and find my VMC Neutral Grey and see what it's like next to Grey Seer. Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition. I don’t want to buy a pot of Grey Seer just to do a little bit of drybrushing, but I do have other Citadel grey paints. Would any of those be an acceptable equivalent of Grey Seer?