I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said…

Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues. Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout.

Getting some heat under the van (It’s winter)

This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment.I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”.

This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative. Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside) So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do? Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas.Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed. Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future. Waxoyl should help stop water getting in to connectors and terminals, causing corrosion. I also put some on the battery terminals and the main chassis ground connection. I don’t know much about compressors. This was my first time using one. All I know is that the maximum value on the dial was about 115psi (about 8 bar) which is more than enough for this job – I know because I tested it out and it got incredibly messy.

For a few years now I have been using a secret additive which I add at 2% to the waxoyl to make it impact resistant. I have found that not only does this make the waxoyl abrasion resistant with no trade off in its capability to kill rust, I have found that it also prevents the waxoyl from oxidizing and disappearing over time. later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?" If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter.

Waxoyl High Pressure Sprayer Extra Info

This gun has a screw thread that is designed to fit onto many popular undersealing products – except, for some reason, Waxoyl. I emptied out a tetrashutz tin and used that. I managed to borrow a compressor and was finally able to properly get to all those internal areas. In this post I’ll go over how and where I waxoyled the van. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in. More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better.