When dry, gather all the balls and remove all the wire hooks. Now with a sharp craft knife, cut down the center of each ball as straight as possible, making equal size halves, starting where the little hole is where the wire hook was poking in. Now comes another fiddly bit. It can be done yourself, but having another pair of hands will make life much easier. Before the head is permanently attached to the ring section, we need to fix the pulley wire coming from the eye stalk counter lever, to the wheel on the motor described in step 8. One extra thing I did was to make a small cardboard battery holder that fits just inside the inspection panel for easy access, without having to tip my Darlek upside down.

With a pen, measure and mark each strip with the following... 1cm, 1.5cm, 1.5cm. Now with a craft knife, cut down the width of the supports down to the screws (see photo). If any of the grab adhesive peels off, not to worry. this can be re applied at the end.

Brand

You can also use the Dalek to guard a location - say for example you want to know if someone approaches your bedroom door. Simply place the Dalek outside your door and activate it. Once it's ready to accept your voice command, you simply say: "Guard location". Then, when anyone comes near, it will warn them to leave the area otherwise they will be exterminated. They have a couple of seconds to comply before it cries: "Exterminate!" and makes a firing sound. And, should you want to sneak past it you simply have to say: "Voice command override." One little thing you can do now if you had to use more than one peace for the final layer, is to use a little more adhesive, put some on your finger, and rub over all the joins to eventually make it look like one peace . When finished, leave overnight. Just to reiterate, these are not proper spec sizes, but what I came up with and used, which seemed to work quite well in the end.

Wrap the leftover pen with aluminum tape. Then on the main body of the pen, using a very small screwdriver, make 6 equally spaced pilot holes near the tip end, and then 6 more about 3cm's from the end.To finish the head off, and to add some much needed stability, grab a peace of cardboard, lay on the work surface and place the head on top. Draw around the head on to the cardboard and cut out a cardboard disk. You will now need to cut out an inner circle to make a ring, about 3cm deep. Use the ever faithful grab adhesive and pipe some out around the edge of one side of the entire ring. Then place the head on to the ring making sure all around is flush with the ring edge. You will have a good few minutes to get it absolutely perfect before the adhesive begins to set, so don't panic and feel you have to rush this step. It will pay off with the end result. Below are all the posts categorised under Radio controlled daleks Character Doctor Who 12″ Remote Dalek Re-Release

This part is a bit of trial and error. I needed to cut out a circle of the center of the now shaped cardboard to fit over the turret of the tank, and leave enough room for the turret to move freely with no obstruction, as the gap between the chassis and turret was not completely flat. So cut small to start then cutting more where needed to avoid cutting out to much cardboard and making it weaker. As seen in the photo, I did not cut out a circle but rather cut to shape of the protruding body parts of the tank and helping make the base level. Now repeat the process, this time around the base just above the bumper. When the base is complete, go panel by panel adding the final two spheres (four on the two larger side panels), making sure they are evenly spaced down and across the skirt panels. Done.Moving on up now, the weapons housing and main chest panel now needs to be done. Lets start with the weapons housing. If you can, insert 2 of the marker pens in to each other, if not, then glue together. Then carefully wrap some aluminum tape around the length of both pens making it as smooth as you can, twisting the pens and smoothing the tape slowly. The tank chassis measured 35cm by 15cm and 5cm deep from top of chassis to the ground. To make the base, What I did first was to take apart the body from the chassis and remove the cannon motor, battery leads, and aerial wire. I then cut and extended the wires, then pushed them through a small hole I made in the top, slightly off center, of the turret. I then started to make the base. Here's how it was done. As with the base plate, you could use some paper to make a template, copy it over to the cardboard then cut out using a straight edge to guide for a nice clean cut.