Okay, so which of these hundreds of Citadel paints should I get first? If you’re just starting out or want to expand your current paint collection with the most useful, versatile, or even fun paints available from Citadel, continue reading for info that may help you make your decision. So for the final highlight I’m using the new Corax White which is likewise phenomenal as a layer paint over Celestra. It works really well as a base, but I still think Celestra has it beat. However its a thousand times better than White Scar or Ceramite White which for my money are not very good paints at all. Normally I’d go with Ulthuan Grey but again its a very sharp jump in brightness and I found the softer hue of Corax White just looks better on the more subtle gradient of Celestra and Grey Seer.

I decided to paint the British Napoleonic Highlander Centre Companies box from Victrix for this HTPE, tartan and all. Some might call that foolish, and they would be right.The goal here is to make sure the undersides are the parts being highlighted, which is kind of the reverse from how you’d normally do it. Just think about where the light is coming from as you do this. I also did a blend of Evil Sunz Scarlet and Fire Dragon bright into the gold trim surrounding the head. You could try the ones I mentioned, Vallejo White Grey or Neutral Grey, but he former would need to be darkened slightly if you want a match for Grey Seer and the latter may need to be lightened, I'm not sure on the VMC Neutral Grey, if you want I can dig through my hobby bin and find my VMC Neutral Grey and see what it's like next to Grey Seer. From there you can start getting real fancy. Puddles of toxic liquids with paint and clear acrylic. Adding barbed wire etc. But for the most part you should have a decent base, that’s easy to paint up and can really make your minis stand out. In total, there are over 340 “paint mediums” that you can buy from the Citadel product line. And, I’m sure there many more forthcoming. They comes in all types and colors. Each behaves differently and may be formulated for a different purpose. Remember to always start your project with a suitable primer.

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. In this article we’re looking at the Warmaster of Chaos in the 41st Millennium, Abaddon the Despoiler. Who is Abaddon? Vallejo make White Grey 70.993 in their VMC line, but it's lighter than Grey Seer, much closer to white, but in the same realm of being a relatively neutral grey (not particularly warm nor particularly cool). VMC also have "Neutral Grey 70.992" which I've sometimes used as a light grey but unfortunately I can't find my bottle at the moment so I can't compare it to Grey Seer. Averland Sunset is the perfect yellow base paint. Yeah, I said it (but I also show you a reason why here). For most acrylic yellow paints, you’ll find that coverage is poor and splotchy. You’ll take your yellow paint and try to apply it to a model, only to discover streaks. In contrast to this hassle, Averland Sunset paint will create a smooth even coat of yellow paint in 1-2 layers. Thin with a dab of water to keep the paint flowing off your brush and apply it with ease. I never bother trying to paint yellow on anything without starting first with a good coat of Averland Sunset. It is a beautiful yellow color by itself, or you can use brighter yellows over it to highlight, or darker browns/oranges to shade. Yriel Yellow Layer Paints – these are conventional model acrylic paints and form the bulk of the Citadel Paint line. These paints come in a huge variety of colors, tones, and values. You will likely end up owning more of these paints than any of the other paint types.

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Painting historical miniatures is one of the ways I take a break from really pushing myself with painting techniques. I realised at the start of the year that having projects I could just kind of coast through would help keep my motivation up, and so I dove in to historical miniatures. I decided I’d make heavy use of Contrast when painting anything for historical systems, and had great success bashing out two entire platoons at 15mm in an evening using this method. Hey guys Cavalier here, commission painter for Frontline Gaming and co-host of Splintermind the Dark Eldar podcast here today with a painting tutorial on how to paint white models! So if you like the look of this Lion of Chrace I’ll show you how I did it. Of course if you want to put down a larger slab of concrete you’ll have to glue it on after the fact. Agrax Earthshade if you want I guess, could add a little definition around the rings further along the gun

http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. This extends to the models as well, where I’ll drybrush the lower parts of models with Celestra Grey as well to both blend them with the base in a natural way and also make them feel like a part of the environment. Rakarth Flesh is another base color that provides you with many versatile applications. Start with this color as a basecoat or use it as a highlight layer paint. Solid opaque coverage can be had in 1-2 coats. A small bit of water will help it flow off your brush. I use this paint color for lighter skin tones, for painting parchment papers (e.g., purity seals, anyone?), and as a dry brush highlight color over browns and dark grays that you may often find on model bases or terrain bits. This is a lovely paint that I recommend for its many uses. Bugman’s Glow Also when alongside other units in my army, it seems like it couldn’t be a brighter shade of white!Retributor Armour is the absolute base gold metallic paint (here’s my in-depth review of this amazing gold paint). Gold metallic paint, like yellow paint, have had a bad rap for having poor coverage. They are often hard to use and frequently result in a splotchy finishes. Not Retributor Armour. This gold paint covers any well-primed surface in 1-2 coats, easily, creating a prototypical beautiful gold reflective finish. You can either use it as the primary gold metallic, or shade it with Reikland Flesh or Seraphim Sepia. Use a purple wash, and you turn this gold into a copper metallic (see a more thorough overview of working with metallic paint among others in this article). You can edge highlight this gold with a bit of Stormhost Silver, and give it a bright specular sheen. Technical/Texture Paints Nighthaunt Gloom For most miniature pieces I paint yellow, I use Yriel Yellow as my highlight for yellow surfaces. I’ve painted nearly every Imperial Fist space marine piece I own with this paint as the main color. For highlighting Averland Sunset (above), this is the perfect choice. Mix the two paints together for a nice midtone transition. To paint fire effects, you can use this yellow as the transition between the orange and the white parts of the flame. I don’t use any yellows brighter than Yriel Yellow, lest I allow my viewers to think I used a highlighter pen on my miniatures. This is a must-have yellow paint along with Averland Sunset. Mournfang Brown

I've got a project which calls for a light drybrush of Grey Seer. While I know most any light grey paint would work, I thought it would be worth it to ask and see if anyone has an opinion on which Citadel, Game Color or Model Color paint would be the best match, as Google searches seem to only give recommendations on spray cans. Thanks. Now the model I’ll be showing is the matching lion to the one pictured above. So simply begin by priming the model Corax White. Armageddon Dust is a texture paint you apply to create a minimalist look for your bases. It is a simple paste material you slather onto your base that dries into an sandy, dusty surface. You can dry brush the surface to pull up details, using paints like Screaming Skull or other bone colors.

Making Urban Bases

It goes on like a dream. I actually brush painted the big raised engine nodes on the prow of the bike no sweat at all. I then did some full bodied edge highlighting all the way around the bike. First up, I use “Vallejo rough grey pumice” with some sculpting tools to form the groundwork. It’s a nice compromise between the ready made (but expensive) Astrograniteand the DIY of the filler with sand and paint method. Note that, with most techniques and methods, urban bases are going to look gray. This can be a real positive, because it means that urban bases can go well with pretty much any color scheme, and work best when the model itself has bright colors, so that it can pop against the gray base. It also means that most of the time we’ll need another way to visually communicate “urban” beyond just “gray grit,” particularly on larger bases where the effect may look boring. In these cases, we’ll see how things like rubble, debris, roads, and other destroyed structures can help pull the model together and complete the effect. For the next step I use Coeilia Greenshade mixed with Lahmian Medium to add a nice touch of blue green to the lion’s mane and tail. The green in this excellent paint adds some range of color to the model to avoid being monotone greys and blues. In the end it helps to create a more ethereal look to the model. If say however, I was painting a White Scars Space Marine I would use Drakenhoff Darkshade/Lahmian Medium mix after using the grey which would give greater definition, but look a bit less ethereal/mystical. If was painting a Luna Wolf I may go for Russ Grey for grittier more muted approach all round.