It doesn't often happen to me that a perfume goes on my wish list within the first few minutes after application, and is also not drained again over the entire course of wearing it. Since it’s trying to replicate Serge Luten’s trip to Morocco, and the forgotten wooden box containing the amber resin, the scent will work best for occasional wear during the colder months of the fall and winter.

As with all Serge Lutens fragrances, the brand doesn’t share official notes, but Parfumo lists the most accurate note listing: Amber, Angelica Root, Benzoin, Coriander, Labdanum, Bay leaf, Myrtle, Oregano, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Styrax, Tolu balm, and Vanilla. This aromatic greenness is accompanied by a set of supporting notes of myrtle, coriander, and angelica root which act more of a supporting role that blends into other aromatic qualities of this scent, rather than taking the front role. A perfume line created by Serge Lutens in his own image. Minimalist, straight lined, angular and uncompromising, each of these bottles with their refined style reflects the exacting nature and character of their creator. A sobriety which enhances the richness and sumptuousness of the perfumes, whose scents and colours are as numerous and as nuanced as precious stones and our personalities. Whenever I think of France, I think of perfume. And while many people might think this is a stereotypical association, as a beauty editor who has spent a lot of time in France with various perfume brands, I can assure you it's one founded in reason— everyone in France seems to smell great. They waft the distinctive aroma of richness wherever they walk. Even if they don't live a life of riches, they smell like they do. I enter an area of sensory-impressive luxury in the scent of spices, precious balsamic oils, smoky resins and embracing warmth.

Inspired by scented wax found in a souk and long forgotten in a wooden box, the amber note has been given a sultanesque quality and re-worked with fragrant Cistus herb. The intoxicating deep balsamic and spiced qualities of the fragrance exude from notes of Patchouli, Benzoin and Labdanum. An unexpected overtone of Vanilla helps to soften the fragrance with warm and creamy notes. We crossed Borneo, Kalimantan and Saravak and went to visit Brunei. With the sultan. Perhaps the richest man in the world The heavy Amber plays a big role here and combines excellently with the slightly chocolate-spotted benzoin - a classic mixture with which you can't do much wrong in principle, because it's cuddly and round.

The resins (Benzoe and Labdanum belong to my favorites meanwhile) provide the slightly sweetish depth and spices (Here Koreander and Oregano, which clearly perceptibly weave through the course) lift it up again and make sure that the scent does not sink one-dimensionally hard, as it is unfortunately often the case with many less thoughtfully composed Orientals.In case you are in doubt about whether you should consider buying this fragrance or not, it’s always good to take a look at Scent Grail’s S.P.A. Signature Factor Guide.

The overall impression from the opening is further explored with touches of an intense and unique aroma coming from labdanum which provides additional layers resembling honey, and fine cognac. As time progresses, Ambre Sultan starts to lose its herbal qualities, and transitions into a resinous heart. The fragrance tails into the more subtly-sweet ambery accord with touches of animalic musks, and woody territory. Serge Lutens hasn't really warmed me up yet. Many of his creations are somehow too floral-heavy for me. Fortunately, this is by no means the case with all of his fragrances. More complex, but just as wearable and perhaps my favorite amber, is Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114. With a spicy opening of nutmeg, warm sandalwood soon follows with the addition of patchouli and vetiver. Although the fragrance isn’t sweet, I do get some floral rose and geranium in the drydown. It is so well blended and balanced, the varied notes swirl around you like the first warm breeze in spring after a hard winter.He actually starts out the way he's supposed to stay... sort of straight to the drydown. Nothing that has to sort itself out, no disharmonies, bursting peaks, fluctuations or tarnishing, and all this without being boring. The well-known story of Serge Lutens finding a wooden box containing amber wax in Marrakech starts to unfold here. The only mentioned woody note in the fragrance is sandalwood, but it ain’t that. In his now iconic olfactory creations, the perfumer Serge Lutens has for over 20 years been producing strong alcohols with Proustian accents. From “Féminité du bois”, to “Ambre sultan” and “La fille de Berlin”, each perfume tells their own exceptional story and has their own unique signature. a significant date for Serge Lutens who meets Morocco that year.A revelation! Taken in the crowd and the scents of the old town of Marrakech, Serge discovers by chance during one of his wanderings in the souks, an amber wax.