The beam pattern and visibility for both lights are exceptional. The front throws out a good spread of light and in flashing mode easily lights up road signs for a few hundred metres ahead and the rear daybright mode is searingly bright. Both lights also have an extended lens that enables them to throw out a good level of side visibility, extending the safety levels. Whatever lights you choose, remember the importance of being seen by other road users. Even if you’re cycling through a well-lit area, brighter lights are almost always better. For unlit roads, we suggest you look for a light rated at 500 lumens or more. If you cycle lots of different routes, consider investing in a set of lights with different modes, or even multiple sets to suit different conditions. Of course, light power is an important part of your buying criteria, but don’t let that be the be-all and end-all. Beam shape and the effect of the light lens can make a huge difference — we’ve seen lights of supposedly lesser power trounce rivals when it comes to real-world performance. Landing in the middle ground price wise, they're well designed and have good functionality. Perfect for a lightweight, versatile, good-looking, commuter light set with a very useful daytime mode. READ NEXT: Best road bikes The best bike lights you can buy 1. Ravemen PR1600 Front Light with Remote: Best for combination of features and illumination

This goes out to 13.5 hours on the lowest light setting, but that only comes to five lumens - which is a little too dim for me! In a more urban setting, I don’t feel like that’s bright enough to really stand out against the street lights, traffic lights and the head and tail lights of passing traffic. On darker lanes without so much other light pollution, arguably those five lumens stand out better, but with the higher speed of traffic on country roads, I don’t feel like this is sufficient. All of the lights were put through a bevvy of tests including durability, visibility, battery life and more. These are the seven rear bike lights we tested: The Tail-Light (TL) is surprisingly bright – blinding even – for such a small light. It’s really all you’d ever need from a rear light. The Head-Light (HL) is fine for streetlit commutes but is not enough for seeing on unlit roads – it is strictly a ‘be-seen’ light. He puts all the lights through their paces in our specially designed tests to help us find the best bike lights. SUPER BRIGHT AND VIDE ANGLE VIEW-2400 Lumen super bright headlight creates wide and smooth beam pattern, visible up to 650 feet, wide 180°，evenly illuminates from your tire all the way to where your eyes are looking.The wide beam make it visible from the sides also,cars can see you if they approach from your side at an intersection.Free Tail light included.The bike light set make your bicycle 360º visibility,keep in safety all the time.GET IT NOW!The mounting is via a Silicone band, which accommodates seatposts of varying depths, as well as making it easy to swap between bikes. You can also use the light with a clip, which makes it possible to attach to the light loop of a saddle bag or similar. It’s not a particularly easy subject to explain, and they’re not directly convertible units. But simply put: as long as you buy decent quality bike lights, fit them properly, and remember to switch them on, the law shouldn’t be a problem. Bike lights and the US law What does US law say about bike lights?

This light is really the star performer on test - it’s the least expensive by quite a way, super bright and nicely designed. To be seen when riding on lit roads, 100 lumens is a good benchmark, but 300+ will show you a little more of what's going on at ground level ahead of you. At the rear, anything from 20 to 100 lumens is plenty. How should I mount my bike lights? All of the lights we test last at least an hour on their brightest setting. And in some cases, they'll last days on their least bright setting. Light modes: Even basic lights will often come with several light modes. These usually range from constant to flashing, and will help to save your battery. Some let you alter the brightness as well, which is helpful if you're travelling between well-lit and rural areas. You may come across a relatively new feature called 'Daylight Flash', where the light will emit a flash powerful enough to be seen during the day.

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The band clamp system for the mount is really neat in how it accommodates all handlebar diameters without the need for rubber shims - which seem to invariably get lost. But the need for an Allen key and its fiddly nature means that this isn’t so easy to swap between bikes. On the other hand, it uses the same quarter-turn mount as a Garmin, so can be popped onto one of those mounts which is neat.

After ranking each light for how well it illuminates the road and its surroundings, it's interesting to note that lights with higher claimed lumen output aren't always better at lighting up the way while you're riding.The Topeak Taillux 100 doesn’t have the bells and whistles of some of the other lights on test - but it does the fundamentals very well, and comes in a little cheaper as a result. PDW’s Lars Rover Power extends its beam further than Trek’s Commuter Pro RT, but it doesn’t ‘fill’ the road ahead quite as well. The PNW light also doesn’t fill the area perpendicularly out from the front wheel, whereas the Commuter Pro RT does cast its light out in that direction, too. In essence, the Lars Rover Power is a more ‘basic’ lens, but depending on your application this light distribution could be preferable. verifyErrors }}{{ message }}{{ /verifyErrors }}{{

In terms of the good, the Knog Mid Cobber has the widest angle of visibility out of all the lights on test - the distinctive curve of this light is instantly recognisable as a Knog, and it gives a whopping 330 degree range of visibility directly from the light. We feel this is a more accurate weight, as you'll be carrying these attachments with you on the light when it isn't attached to your bike. The different types of front bike lights So the 4.5 hour run on ‘high’ is basically as good as it gets for night riding - but for commuting duties and evening rides, that is all that’s needed. The daytime flash mode is pretty good with those 90 lumens and a six hour run time, at least considering the size of the light. To do this we strap each of the lights to a bike (in turn), wait until it gets dark, and head out to an unlit country lane. When you start looking at lights, you'll notice that some are simple single button affairs, whereas others have a features list as long as your arm. Below, we've outlined the key things to look out for.Finally, the Mid Cobber has built-in USB charging, so you don’t need to remember a cable - but you do need a USB port to plug it into and the light itself is pretty bulky. For some people cableless charging is a must-have deal breaker - for me, I prefer USB-C and the flexibility of a cable. Regarding the positives, the PDW Lars Rover Power comes in at two thirds of the price of Trek’s Commuter Pro RT and its battery gauge is equally clear and simple, providing a good sense of the amount of juice you have left. The mounting system is also a tool-less split-clamp, just like Trek’s, so swapping between bikes isn’t too much of a faff - though it is more involved than Knog’s excellent system on the Blinder 900.