If you want to make Reolink NVR work with the camera, then its connection diagram will be like below: The RLC 811A uses PoE (Power over Ethernet), so you do not need to position it near to a power supply to use it. Run an Ethernet cable up to 330ft in length to the camera, connect the Ethernet cable to a PoE injector and connect the PoE injector to a power adapter inside your home. Hanging next to both of these inputs is the reset button. Press and hold this, then add power to the camera, and it’s reset to factory defaults. It seems a little crazy to make this so accessible.

At the rear of the camera, there is a metal cover for the SD card, screwed into the camera housing. The RLC 811A will support an SD card of up to 256GB capacity. As we review the Reolink RLC-810A vs. Reolink RLC-811A, you will get a full understanding of both, and in the end, be able to make an informed decision. To get it connected, you need to use the PoE Switch (IEEE 802.3af, 48V Active) or DC Power (DC 12.0V⎓2A, <24W) to power it on first. You can refer to the diagram below to connect it to the network:For more specifications of the 811A, please refer to Specifications-811A Installation of RLC-811A Connection Diagram You can choose to add an SD card to the camera if you do not want to use an NVR. You can not use Reolink's cloud storage with this model at the moment. However, cameras like the Reolink Go PT, Argus 3, Argus PT, and E1 Zoom do use this feature. Not all camera models generate ONVIF push events for all event types, some binary sensors might, therefore, only be polled.

An SSL certificate can still be enforced for external connections, by, for instance, using the NGINX add-on or NGINX Proxy Manager add-on instead of a globally enforced SSL certificate. The first problem I encountered was the spotlight function. The camera is supposed to have smart motion spotlights that can illuminate the night scene and deter intruders. However, the spotlights kept flashing on and off at night like a disco, even when there was no motion detected. This was very annoying and disturbing for me and my neighbors. These are all taken with only the lights for the cam the screenshot was taken of. For example, in the IR lights screenshot of the 1212A, only its IR lights are on, not both.First, there’s a 12V input, although this isn’t waterproof, so should be covered with tape if you do use it. Given that there’s no Wi-Fi on this camera and you have to use Ethernet, it makes sense to go with the Power over Ethernet (PoE) option.

What had me really wanting to do this comparison is to see if the IR lights and spotlights are just as good on the 1212A. If you compare the specs between the two, you'll see that the 811A has 4 IR lights and 5 spotlights, compared to the 1212A which only has 2 IR lights and 1 spotlight. The specs even say the 1212A's 1 spotlight is brighter than the 811A's 5. (700 vs 450 lumens). I like the time-lapse feature on this camera. Turn it on, and the camera will take images at regular intervals during the day and save the video onto the SD card. Reolink has a slightly basic app, although it at least provides the features that you’d expect. After adding the Reolink RLC-811A to your home network, the app gives you a thumbnail view. Tap this and you jump into the live mode.PTZ left, right, up, down, zoom in and zoom out will continually move the camera in the respective position until the PTZ stop is called or the hardware limit is reached. A brand new Reolink camera first needs to be connected to the network and initialized. During initialization, the credentials for the camera need to be set. Follow the on-screen instructions to first setup the credentials (use the same credentials in Home Assistant). a. Cameras with a resolution of 8MP and above can only use the sub-stream to live view, because when you use the Reolink protocol to add a camera, you actually use the RTMP protocol, while RTMP does not support the h.265.

Floodlight turn on brightness controls the brightness of the floodlight when it is turned on internally by the camera (see Floodlight mode select entity) or when using the Floodlight light entity. To set up the camera, you need to connect the camera to a PoE switch/injector for network connection. After that, you may finish the initial setup via both Reolink App and Reolink Client. As mentioned earlier, the Reolink RLC-810A and Reolink RLC-811A are both PoE cameras. You may choose to power them up with a PoE switch, PoE injector, or a 12 Volts D.C adapter (not included in the box). Once this is done, integrating it with the Reolink app is a very easy process. The RLC 810A (4.0 mm) has a lens specification of f-4.0 mm, and F-2.0, while its field of view is 87° to the horizontal, 47° to the vertical, and a 30-meter night vision distance.However, these cameras can work with this integration through an NVR in which the NVR is connected to Home Assistant. The tear-down process involves removing the four screws from the rear side of the camera and then to slide the front section to reveal the internal components. This way, I was able to identify the NT98523MBG 2004-BB T8N60400 processor, 256 MB of RAM from SKHynix (H5TQ2G63GFR RDC 928V NWMN7918WH), 128 MB of flash memory (GigaDevice FP2024 5F1GQ4UBYIG) and a Ruimeng MS41929 JCQA05 IC. So it’s not just the internal layout that’s almost identical to the RLC-511WA, but the components are also the same, minus the RAM which comes from a different manufacturer.