Near-flawless colour matches, but not “copycats” of other paints as different consistencies and behaviours

If you are looking to save time it’s worth remembering with stuff like this that even basic layering like this blends together v

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Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html

But I can’t complain about the very rich pigmentation, and I found the coverage to be well above average as well. Most of the medium and darker colours really cover in two thin coats over a dark basecoat. That’s actually pretty good! The 48 acrylic colours

TheChirurgeon’s Method

Necron Overlord. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Cryptek Plasmancer. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Royal Warden. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Skorpekh Lord. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones I started the army up around the time of the 8th Edition codex release – it was just getting to the point where I was bored of using my Eldar at club nights and starting to do enough events that I thought having a second army to use would be a good idea. I also, bluntly, thought they would be pretty easy to paint, and selected the Sautekh scheme for my army because it was super simple. That did, basically, turn out to be true, but ironically the process of working on this army (plus some other projects I was doing in parallel) was enough of a level-up moment for my painting ability that by the end I was looking for ways to add a bit of flair rather than keep things easy! From there, assembly time. Here I thought I’d test the theory that you can build these without glue, and the answer is that yes, you can, and they’re mostly fine. There were a couple of joins that were a little bit looser than I’d like (so I did add glue to those after testing the dry fit) but if you really wanted to go glue-free you could. The hardest parts to work with were faces – GW have devised a clever way to hold these into place, which is that they’re attached to one of the arms and sort of get twisted into position and held by the tension, which works but is a little fiddly to line up, and the main place I went “screw it, adding glue”.