This will be much easier if you have disconnected the push button end of the cable too so you have plenty of slack. what I find a bit odd is the fact that the plunger doesn't kick in to fill it back up as on the old "ball" cisterns the more the level dropped the more it would put back in.

The top of the valve has the codes AFV50100 and AFV50200 and comes complete with an adjustable overflow tube which adjusts from 190mm to 330mm.

I might dissassemble my old one to see why it was jamming because outwardly I can't see a problem, but the problem has gone away with a new one. PLEASE NOTE CERTAIN PARTS OF SCOTLAND, IRELAND and the ISLE of MAN will not be next day if chosen and will take an extra day. Isolate the water supply, flush the loo, then remove the cistern top (do you know how to do this, especially if the push button is on the top).

Two days ago the cistern stopped filling completely and no amount of button-jiggling (bar one or two occasions) seems to bring it back. It was a direct swap, no need to dismantle the cistern just twist out the old body (I had to twist mine CLOCKWISE) and fit the new one. Although on my flush the smaller level indicator on the side of the unit was the trouble as it was sticking and preventing the plunger from going down far enough, you can ensure it is operating ok by making sure the that the bottom of the plunger is down a good 1 ins from the unit casing, if not it means the plunger is still sticking and the water will still run thru it into the toilet pan,so just make sure its 1 ins .I usually use flexi hose with an iso valve and put the end of the hose with the washer onto the cistern fitting.

Be sure you note disassembly positions so its easy to get back together, bit of oil (3 in 1 is better than WD in my opinion) down this end of cable. When I leave in the morning the cistern is at the max fill (6L) marker, however when I get home it's sat at the minimum marker (4. which looked to have identical fittings, could I replace just the valve that I removed with another version (rather than the base as well, as if that needed replacing I wouldn't bother), are the bases on them a universal fit?I've looked around t'internet and it would seem the water running would be down to a problem with the flush valve. The cable-controlled flush valve can be easily fitted either to the top or the front of the cistern and is suitable for cisterns from 300 mm to 420 mm. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.

I can't imagine the bolt is threaded into the bowl directly though - is there a plastic fitting glued to the base unit perhaps? There is one red wheel on a pipe connected to the bottom of the tank, and another (red also) on one at around shoulder height. Remove the cable connection from the valve, you usually need to press a bar on the side of the mechanism. I have had a look at the valve inside the cistern, but was not sure how to disconnect the hose - or the valve for that matter.I took off the cistern lid and poked around but couldn't make much sense of the workings - all the valves etc seem to be well hidden inside the plastic fittings and the way to remove them for inspection didn't seem obvious. our operatives are all experienced within the industry and are more than happy to help with any questions. somhairle wrote:The cistern top simply lifts off but the attached hose prevents it from being set aside. It was a direct swap, no need to dismantle the cistern just twist out the old body and fit the new one. At this point all i did was squirt in plenty of WD40 and keep activating the little leaver with a pencil untill the cable is freed by the WD40.