Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Cadian Fleshtone

£9.9
FREE Shipping

Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Cadian Fleshtone

Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Cadian Fleshtone

RRP: £99
Price: £9.9
£9.9 FREE Shipping

In stock

We accept the following payment methods

Description

GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) Mix in a little more Warboss Green and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit

As this set is intended for slightly more advanced painters who like to experiment with their own colour mixes, there is a nice addition of four empty 18 ml dropper bottles for keeping your paint mixes as well as 20 stainless steel balls that you can add to the paint bottles to achieve better mixing when shaking. White Scar– White Scar is a pure white paint that can be used to create highlights and add a sense of depth to the Cadian Fleshtone paint. White is a neutral color that will create a strong contrast with the warm flesh tone, making the miniatures look more realistic. This tutorial assumes you have a good understanding of how to paint. Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint(s) I used during that step. Armor- To achieve an aged gold look for the armor on my sisters of silence I start with VMC Hammered Copper all over. I then washed it with a mix of Golden High Flow Acrylics Sepia, Dioxazine Purple, and some medium and water. I have a number of these paints I use for washing and airbrushing. If you aren’t diving headfirst into airbrushing, I would recommend games workshop’s Druchii Violet, Agrax Earthshade, and possibly Lahmian Medium. The golden paints are basically just more concentrated versions of these. This is a fairly weak wash, just enough you can spot the purple hints in the recesses. After washing, I gave the entire model and edge highlight with Retributor Armor.Glaze 4:1 Carroburg Crimson:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Next, highlight the face with Kislev Flesh. Kislev Flesh is a paint with a lower opacity, so build up the highlight in a couple of thin layers for a smooth transition. Seraphim Sepia, Reikland Fleshshade, Gulliman Flesh, Carroburg Crimson, Drakenhof Nightshade, Volupus Pink

That pretty much covers it. I’m happy with the final model and it wasn’t nearly as much time to paint as I expected it might take. After the skin was done, I took some Volupus Pink worked it on my wet pallete and then went over the scars. Enhance this weathering my mixing some White Scar into the above paints and adding smaller patches. Following the basecoat, I go into my first shade. For my shade, I use Guilliman Flesh Contrast Paint thinned down about 2:1 with Contrast Medium . In retrospect, I think this left the shade a bit too light and I had to hit some areas an extra time, so a 1:1 mix would also probably work.You can then push that further and get a more pallid look, verging on your sea elf colors. Playing at the very edge of what looks reasonable can be a great way to sell something as inhuman. With my Custodes skin, I tend to push towards grey from a flesh tone base, to really push that these are massively genetically altered giant men in golden armor, and you can use a similar effect to emphasize the otherness of eldar or elves. Contrary to what many pots of paint would have you believe, there is no single “skin tone”. The reason for this is because human skin is a complex, multilayered structure and derives its colour as a sum of its components, much of which is constantly in flux in life. Skin is translucent and “skin colour” is largely a combination of the colours present within the skin – the pigment melanin, red of blood and yellow of fat. If you have had the misfortune of seeing a corpse, then you can observe the sallow cast that develops – the loss of blood from the skin on death leads to a loss of ‘red’, leaving the melanin and fat behind. Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Mephiston Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Glaze most of the leather with thinned Mournfang Brown . Use quite a small brush and drag towards edges in rough lines. This should create some extra texture.

Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Death Guard – The Death Guard are a faction of Chaos Space Marines in the Warhammer 40k universe. The Cadian Fleshtone paint can be used to paint the flesh of these soldiers, as well as to create a range of skin tones, from the standard human-like flesh to the more corrupted flesh. With pure Ushabti Bone , selectively highlight corners and exposed edges of the leather. Put a dot of this colour where the additional scratched above meet edges too. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo That’s your baseline, but it’s just a place to start. You can easily tweak skin in various ways by adding little touches of glazes or filters. Try these:Before we get started, I’m going to be using some specific techniques to really get that classic look. First up is layering. This is the simple process of covering one paint with another, leaving the previous in the recesses. So were you to paint fabric, you’d paint it with a base color and then layer up with a lighter color, leaving the darker color in the fabric folds. We’ll be doing a lot of this, especially as washes as we know them didn’t really exist in 1996. If you want to add any extra definition in recesses, I would receommend doing a deep recess shade with some thin Dryad Bark and a thin brush. Now use the browns from your pallete to selectively edge highlight the horns, using a shade one stage lighter than they were painted initially. The first is light that is bounced off of the skin retaining the color of the source light. In typical conditions (outside, under a blue sky) this is a slightly cool (tinged with blue) white color. Typically, when you’re taking flesh tone and mixing in white to highlight, this is what you’re approximating. On the surfaces where light is shining directly, you get more white showing through. Natural: Burnt Red + Basic Fleshtone -> Add more Basic Fleshtone to mix to generate highlight tones.



  • Fruugo ID: 258392218-563234582
  • EAN: 764486781913
  • Sold by: Fruugo

Delivery & Returns

Fruugo

Address: UK
All products: Visit Fruugo Shop