Campagnolo uses a grease from Kluber that is very light but with fantastic adhesion properties. This allows the freehub to spin and the Paul's to work with less resistance. It also means they use less grease. These two factors make for louder hubs. It is important to distinguish between shimano style freehub bodies and the others, where the freewheel body rotates on the axle using its own set of bearings, which is what I presume you have. As a bike wrench in the time when freewheels and freehubs both existed, I saw too much oil/grease more often than not enough. Once a hub is running in SFG, it is simply a question of adding more from time to time. With a rim brake hub this can be done via a drilling, and you should expect to have to wipe up excess coming out of the hub for the first few hundred miles. after each top-up. With a disc brake hub it is better just to add it in the RHS, else you may get leakage on the left side which may contaminate the disc. Sometimes on BHS/Bitex hubs the bearings have not been fully seated in the hub shell. They're close but not quite. So when the axle end caps are tightened there is a little too much preload on the bearing. Not enough to damage the bearings but enough to make a noticeable difference in wheel spin down. Whether there is a difference under a rider is open to debate.

The freewheel is screwed onto threads that form a rigid part of the hub using a special tool that meshes with slots in the freewheel’s body. Oh god. The things I’ve seen. First of all, do not spray ANYTHING on your disc rotors or calipers. I’m worried the world isn’t ready for disc brakes. Or bike shops aren’t doing their job educating consumers. Something is wrong here, that is for sure. I will also say I think road cyclists tend to be less concerned about maintenance things than mountain bike riders, maybe because the road bikes are a bit less dynamic so it’s not something many road cyclists obsess over in the way some MTB riders do, and the bikes have less tunable functionality in general. Most people just get on a road bike and go, at best maybe they pump their tires up every time to a specific pressure but even that is a long shot for most road riders. I've noticed my freehub has gotten quite a bit louder over the last few months. Several people have recommended that I lubricate the freewheel by tipping the bike on its side and dripping lubricant into the freewheel. However, I've gotten differing opinions on what to use for a lubricant. Hi BobDopolina, do you also like the Kluber grease for freehubs that have needle bearings and can it also be used with cone and bearing hubs like Shimano.QUOTE 4136088, member: 45"]Have you taken it off the hub? There are bearings on the inner side and if you're only dealing with the outer ones then this might be why you're getting recurrent problems.[/QUOTE]

Streetwear – keep it real! Streetwear is more than just street clothes – it is a lifestyle. The term "streetwear" comes from the skate scene of the 1970s. "Keep it real" and "stay true to yourself" was the motto of the young board... But the last days I wondered if I should spring for the Dumonde products (which, like all bicycle specific things, are extremely expensive) or gear oil. i.e. if I'm doing my hub a disservice by using the chain oil? BobDopolina wrote:IIRC the R&R grease is similar to Bull Shot from years ago. It was good grease with great adhesion but t was certainly much more viscous than the Kluber grease Campagnolo uses. Many wheelset makers sell wheels with the option to choose different freehub standards though, so if you know what type of cassette you plan to use, you can buy a compatible wheelset. A pawl freehub consists of sprung levers that mesh with a toothed drive. James Huang / Immediate MediaInstall axle and assemble non-drive side parts. Axle should turn smoothly with no side-to-side motion after adjustment. Install one gear inside freehub with smooth side facing freehub, and toothed side facing hub shell.

Basically a good quality oil is always better but it also will be displaced and dissolved more easily so it requires more frequent maintenance. Sorry KLabs, I don't know. I've never used Red Devil. I got the Super Web primarily for Campag hub bearings but it seemed to be quite similar to the grease that Campag use so I tried on the pawls.

I'm pretty certain this is one of the most neglected areas of a race bike. It surely does deserve some looking into. With Shimano’s move to 12-speed in its newest Dura-Ace Di2 R9200 groupsets, the components company has updated its Hyperglide freehub design. It's possible that the freehub has worn out, but if not, you definitely don't want grease in there as it gums up the mechanism. There is a reason why I know this...