Look forward for this being an all in one thread with people sharing tips instead of getting a little here and there.

The key with any conductivity enhancer is to use it sparingly. A little goes a long way. Small quantities of it help metal to retain or regain its conductive properties. But like any oil, too much of it makes it an insulator, completely defeating the purpose. When you flood a connection with it, your only recourse is to let it evaporate, or clean it off as best you can with a solvent like mineral spirits. The first time I saw someone use an eraser was my first electronics job out of school. I worked for a place that mass produced specialize computers and computer boards for trains and subways. I must have lived in a oxygen poor and dust free home because non of my consoles or games never needed “blowing”. Most of the time, if you have followed the above process, your receiver will function fine, and sound markedly better than it has in many years.So I prefer the 5 oz (142 gram) Deoxit D5 (which has more solvents and flushing action for cleaning) and/or Faderlube F5 (for more lube) for just about all my cleaning applications. Just my preference. Anyway, as time went on, I saw this “solution” being performed more and more until it seemed to spread across country, if not world wide. If you are still having problems, there may be something else wrong, like failing components inside. That is for a tech to handle (or DIY, if you are willing to learn enough electronics repair), and beyond the scope of this post. Now look at the inside areas of the receiver. There will probably be a few more fuses scattered around the circuit boards inside. One by one (so you don't mix them up!), remove and clean the ends of the fuse itself, along with the little holders that it clamps into. Then replace the fuse, and move on to the next one. Repeat until you've cleaned up every fuse you can find. Error processing dynamic tag getAttribute('Assembly',1695,'nopricemessage2') : record assembly 1695 not found]

Brief presentation -Companies utilize the benefits of DeoxIT® in Manufacturing, Assembly, Maintenance and Service.And nice to have a dedicated thread. I used to link to the original all the time. It was tough for newbs to find with all the random deoxit threads created. Also do not confuse D100L which is listed as the ingredient in Deoxit D5 with Deoxit D100. If you want 100% Deoxit (no solvents) look for D100 or D100S-2 on the label of the can. DeoxIT Fader Lube is a precision lubricant specifically formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders, switches and other similar components. Over time these components lose their original lubrication from wear and/or repeated cleaning. Dust, dirt, drink spills and other contamination also degrade the components' lubricant. The need for re-lubrication is necessary to avoid excess wear and abrasion to the plastic surfaces. A! The two product lines (probably more products depending on the area needed), would be our DeoxIT® D-Series and DeoxIT® L260D Grease. They explained to me that was the way to clean them since dust caused bad connections. No idea at the time, again, I never, ever had problems with my consoles to do such and argued that there wasn’t enough dust floating around to cause that kind of poor connection and that something was wrong with his connector inside of his console. No idea during that time about oxide corrosion.

Multiple sprays also available for DeoxIT® Gold G-Series, DeoxIT® Shield S-Series and DeoxIT® Fader F-Series) Fast-acting deoxidizing solution that cleans, protects, lubricates and improves conductivity on all metal connectors Use DeoxIT when your musical equipment is experiencing loss, such as turning a potentiometer or a switch and creating an unpleasant noise, even a cable connector. DeoxIT can be used on an instrument or any other electronic hardware that relies on knobs and switches, which are prone to dust and oxidation from exposure to atmospheric changes. Likewise, if there are any intermittencies in your signal or if your power supplies are not lasting as long as they should, a spray or wipe of DeoxIT will go I won't detail the process for removing the faceplate itself on a particular model, but give general instructions, as it will vary from model to model and usually isn't necessary, anyway.

Some knobs, often the larger ones like the volume knob, have a tiny screw set down inside a small hole on their side, which anchors them to the shaft. With those, you need to use a tiny-sized allen wrench to loosen that, before the knob can be pulled off. Sometimes you'll need a jeweller's screwdriver (Phillips head), but almost all of the brands require allen wrenches instead. Usually these are about 1.5mm in size. Both sets of small allen wrenches and jeweller's screwdrivers can be found cheaply at any good hardware store. Get a set of the really tiny ones, and one of them should fit. Formulation: 5% DeoxIT® (active ingredient), 75% odorless mineral spirits (carrier solvent), 20% propellant

For EACH of the above things you've cleaned (pots and switches), AFTER cleaning them with the DeOxit red stuff, you'll want to follow-up with a shot of DeOxit ProLube or DeOxit GOLD, to lubricate and protect the switches. Just spray it in there and work the knobs a couple times to spread it around. You don't need to work the knob dozens of times for this step, since you aren't trying to scrape off oxidation any more, just spread the lubricant. May be used where fast evaporation and/or non-flammability is required, and no dripping is preferred. It is also safe on plastics.

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There will be one or more small holes in the outer metal case of each Pot. These may be drilled holes, or just openings created where the metal cases had little tabs bent inwards to hold them on. It doesn't matter; just find one or more small holes that give access to the inside of the pot. Formulation: 5% DeoxIT® (active ingredient), 75% 1,1,1,3,3-PENTAFLUOROPROPANE (carrier solvent), 1-5% isopropyl alcohol, 20% propellant Remove the screws that are holding on the top cover, and put them safely aside in a small paper cup or dish or something, as you remove them, so they won't be lost. Label that container ("top cover screws") and set it where you won't spill it or lose it. Lift off the cover and set it aside in a safe place where it is out of your way but you can find it again.