Perfect for use with our Framola range of Pergola brackets, these brackets are suitable for use as roof joists when. As the name implies, these ties are designed to keep your roof firmly in place in high winds or even an earthquake. Always make sure to have a gutter union/connector (wherever you need to join two gutter lengths, an angle, or prefab outlet) near a bracket to support the joint, especially if you have elected not to use the ‘bead connectors’ which sit inside the front scroll or ‘bead’ of Infinity gutters, angles and pefab outlets – halfway into each across the join – offering additional support. Given that this section of the bottom chord is likely where one of the connector plates that hold the truss together is located, you may need to nail through a metal plate on one side of the truss.

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This side rafter bracket is generally used on properties where there is no fascia board at the eaves (often referred to as open eaves). You can affix it with a couple of wood screws – it isn’t permanent, so it just needs to be able to hold the ridge board. A hip rafter works in tandem with a common rafter, but when used, it creates a more visually appealing roofline but creates less interior space. The birdsmouth joint can be tricky, but if you use your unfinished shed floor as a template, then it’ll go much quicker. We’ll be using a ridge beam for this project, so each set of rafters will meet a horizontal 2×6 at the apex, which will run the length of the shed and connect to all of the rafters.

As with the rafter, make sure you drive the screw in at the point where the top plate and wall stud meet. We recommend our SleeperFit Black Railway Sleeper Screws for the back, and the Twin Threaded Timber Wood Screws for securing the sides. As with a deck joist hanger, there are designated nail holes, making the installation process somewhat foolproof. So since we are using a roof pitch of 4:12, we’ll use the number 4 in that row to help us make our miter cuts.As with rafter installation, use an 8d nail, making sure that about 2/3 of the nail length ends up in the wall plate. Your last rafter won’t be exactly 16” away, so your last two will likely be closer than the others, which is fine. Part of this has to do with creating a birdsmouth cut to facilitate the joining of top plate and rafter. Even if they aren’t required, it’s best practice to use hurricane ties to ensure your structure is properly protected.

You can now remove your rafters and insert another pair – you’ve created a jig to cut your birdsmouth joints. If you aren’t using a ridge beam, then you’ll want to use plywood gussets to reinforce the connection at the apex of each set of rafters.

They also make sheathing and adding roofing material a bit more difficult due to the added angles on your roof. Because the bottom of the truss is held together with a bottom cord, no birdsmouth cut is required for attaching the truss to the top plate. Those gravitational forces we mentioned earlier are pushing outward on each rafter, from peak to eave.