I'm told the 180tpi (threads per inch) casings are designed for speed and comfort. The skinwall sidewall also contributes to this; traditionally, commuter models tend to employ gumwall, which is much beefier and therefore less prone to sidewall damage. Skinwall sidewalls do require more stringent adherence to recommended pressures. The sidewalls are also retro-reflective on this model. Use the tyre chooser below to help find the perfect Continental hybrid bike tyre for your riding style and budget. These clincher tyres are designed for different types of cycling from commuting to touring. Continental tyres are available with different levels of puncture protection with a safety level of 7 offering the most protection.

A thinner tread and a lighter, more supple carcass save weight. A 700×37C tyre is heavier than a smaller diameter 650×37B but, as a guide, expect a weight of well under 500g for either size. Puncture protection While gravel and adventure bikes started out with road-sized 700C wheels, many now use smaller diameter 650B rims which allow a much fatter tyre for greater grip and comfort but are roughly the same overall diameter. We've rounded up and tested the very best 650B gravel tyres for both wet and dry conditions, so whether you're upgrading or converting, we've got it covered.The speed reflex certainly live up to their moniker. Now, shod with the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Double Defence Tyres my Univega is perky and engaging on metalled roads. However, the Speed Reflex brought things up a few notches. One is the traditional size like 700x28c or 27.5x2.2. The first figure is the tyre diameter(size). The second is tyre width. Note: road bike sizes are in mm, MTB sizes are in inches.

These feature 180tpi casings and skin wall sidewalls, which give a clear indication of their ride persona, straight off. That micro diamond tread pattern is also borrowed from the German marques’ Competition World Tour Tubular. Skin walls are supple and, in this instance, contributes to the aren’t the default for commuting, since they are more prone to damage than gum walls. A reflective sidewall is another small but welcome touch. Its tread cap is thin, so don’t expect huge mileage, but this and the supple 180tpi carcass keep weight down and allow the tyre to perform well on a variety of surfaces. to mount to a very ordinary mtb touring hoop but given a few weeks, they become more compliant and I’ve only needed a single lever to start/scoop the final section of bed home. Either way, you’d be going some to get a pinch flat. With the sealant dried out, the tyres become significantly more vulnerable to punctures. For a commuting or town bike where simplicity and reliability are most important, the need to keep topped up on sealant makes tubeless tyres a less compelling option in this area. Although heavier and with greater rolling resistance, a puncture-proof tyre won’t need a second thought once it is set up. There are pneumatic tyres that are effectively puncture-proof, significantly faster, and comfier. For the overwhelming majority of people these represent a far better compromise.

Accessibility tools

All three required a drop of superglue to plug the holes. A reminder of some vulnerability but comparable with other soft compound tyres I’ve run long term and in similar contexts. Wear has been moderate. Some suggested they’ve had 3,500 from a rear, 5000 up front. 2,500 Spring/Summer miles, wear is localised-along the centre-strip-where I’d expect, given their profile. There’s been no issue with cuts, or similar vulnerability to date and I’ve not been overly vigilant when it comes to brushing casings down, either. The other set of figures you may see is ETRTO sizing like this 28-622. The first number here is tyre width while the second number relates to wheel diameter. Puncture Force Sharp Needle: Pre-2021, this score was known as 'Puncture Resistance'. On some tires with weakly bonded casing wires, the sharp needle can split the casing wires resulting in a lower score. You should make sure that you don’t go too wide for your bike though, as rubbing will damage your tyres and can damage your frame - as well as slowing you down. Their big sections deliver a magic carpet ride quality, the sort that smooths out washboard tarmac and unavoidable/unexpected bigger bumps. Pushed along wet 1in7s at 30mph, they’ve never once lost their bite, or missed a beat, even when morale and concentration have been flagging.

Puncture Force Blunt Needle: The Blunt needle has a flat tip and won't split the casing wires. To puncture the tire, the blunt needle has to cut the casing wires. But it is always going to be a very individual choice, with the right tyre for you depending on your unique combination of road surface and preferences. Schwalbe Marathon GT have a definite edge in terms of speed and seemingly, rival them in terms of durability. I’d opt for the GT, if you weren’t looking to venture beyond metaled road. There is always a trade-off between puncture protection against speed, comfort and grip. If you want truly puncture-proof tyres, solid tyres are the choice for you. But for most people, the sacrifices are just too great.

Two Safety System anti-puncture layers stiffen the tyre enough to lessen ride comfort and increase rolling resistance when compared with the lightest rubber in the category, but for many this will be an acceptable trade-off for reduced susceptibility to flats. Lanes layered in dung and hedge clippings, shards of broken glass and even the odd drawing pin have made negligible impression on the casings. No flats in 5 months and approximately 1800miles.