I know there are rubber alternatives, but looking on Transair they seem a little more expensive (not sure if they're cheaper elsewhere, but I'm not specifically looking at that). Draw a centerline on the piece of wood and transfer the whole shape by stationing your cutout or template on the centerline. Then draw around the template, and flip the template over to get the other, exactly match-ing side. The example shown was made about 30 years ago of Honduras mahogany. For reasons of maintenance, oiled teak is preferable. Varnished wood simply wasn’t made for cradling heavy chunks of metal. Most ratchet straps used in the UK have a label attached to them with information about their strength and how they can be used. If the end is too small, do not use it on your tire and discard it. You will need a larger piece for this step.

The STF is the working tension in the strap created when the lashing is ratcheted down over the load. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in frictional lashing. inspect any straps involved in a load shift incident - do not use them if they’re worn or damaged, even if the damage appears to be minor You can keep your straps in good condition by using sleeves or protectors over corners and sharp or abrasive edges.

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testing has been carried out to establish the specific coefficient of friction for that load and vehicle combination Make sure you use enough lashings to prevent load movement under normal driving conditions. If there is a serious load shift, enforcement agencies will refer to BS EN 12195 1: 2010 Load restraining on road vehicles Safety Part 1: Calculation of securing forces when deciding if you have used enough lashings. If you decide to do the calculation yourself, you must use a coefficient of friction of 0.2 in the calculation unless: Frictional lashing is most effective when the angle of the lashing relative to the load bed is as close to vertical as possible. If the angle is less than 30°, the lashing will not be effective. If this is not possible (for example, if it would overload an axle), you must use an additional method of securing. You could:

First of all, you’ll need a high quality chisel with a 1/2″ blade. The “secret” of good woodworking is to make sure your edged tools are really sharp. Take the time to dress your new or old tool on a good Arkansas stone using light oil as a lubricant. Take great care to keep the angle con-stant as you stroke the stone; other-wise you’ll be rounding the edge rather than sharpening it. When you can shave a hair from your arm, you’ve got the edge sharp enough. Provided you have time inthe lift dropping the rudder out is fine. Providied the cradle is big enough to provide support as you take strain off the slings then you will be best putting the boat into this first so that she is fully settled with the weight on the keel before putting props in all round. There is a real risk of dammage if you put a prop in before all the load is off the hoist of the prop causing excessive pressurein a single spot. As said elsewhere you may well find that the boat pivots as the weight comes off. You will also need to ensure that the boat stays upright. If you havn't done this before please get somebody who has done a few to help. Once settled in the cradle a good number of props tied together as shown on the Saddler should be fine. Make sure that the props are positioned on strong areas of the hull. If you are determined to leave the mast up strip off all you can, frap rigging hard to prevent vibration and even consider wrapping a warm round and round the mast as a 'vortex shredder'. I personnally thing the right size cradle is the thing to get and take away a lot of trouble and worry. Don't worry about the bow and stern props until the end just before the belts get dropped away from the hull. An example of choke lashing - the most effective way to secure loads that extend over the headboard. Understanding the strap label You can achieve positive fit with cylindrical loads (such as paper reels) when the extremity of either one reel or two reels side by side is within 8cm of the side of the vehicle or trailer.Design the larger piece so that about 3″ of the flukes and all of the shank are contained in a resting posi-tion. Design the crown rest with at least an inch of width outside either edge of the crown.

The LC is the maximum force the lashing can safely withstand without damage when pulled in a straight line. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in direct lashing. Standard tension force (STF) The shank slot is easier insofar as its edges are parallel, more difficult in-sofar as there’s a longer slope to cut and smooth, But the procedure is the same as with the fluke recess. Drill a control hole; a 5/8″ bit produces a 5/8″ slot (which is good for anchors up to about 20 pounds.) Then proceed as before, carefully and patiently shaving down the sloped slot. On both sides, attach a garden hose clamp to each fender, with the flat part of the clamp tight against the fender without being too tight. Do not try to remove them once they are in place because they will break if you do so.

A divisible load is a load that can be broken down into multiple smaller parts, such as a bundle of pipes or bars. You must secure any divisible load that is higher than the headboard. You can use additional lashings to stop the load moving forward when the vehicle brakes. Indivisible loads They’re an effective load securing method when used correctly, but they can be damaged easily. Keeping straps in good condition They make a great addition to your toolbox for added safety measures when working on your vehicle, but they should also be used with other precautions in place. The friction between most loads and the standard load beds of most vehicles and trailers is generally low. The weight of a load alone cannot be relied on to keep it in place once the vehicle is moving, even if the load is very heavy and cannot be moved by hand when the vehicle is stationary.