An Airbrush. Not necessary, but much much faster for base layers, Any airbrush should do here (we use a Badger Sotar 20/20 for priming, and a Cult of Paint Infinity CR+ for everything else). Orruk Flesh, Thondia Brown, and Hobgrot Hide are all part of the Citadel Base line. Base paints are paints with a higher pigmentation and often a slightly lower viscosity, designed to create a fully opaque basecoat with just a few coats. As usual for Citadel paints, they come in 12 ml flip-top pots.

Whilst this is called “warm” grey, it;s actually a cool bluish grey, that colder tone will have more colour contrast against the warm yellow armour tones of the armour. A neutral or warm grey would look dull.In this article and the accompanying video, We are painting a Fafnir Rann miniature from the Horus Heresy range, but you can use this guide to paint any of your Imperial Fists miniatures. How to Paint Imperial Fists Space Marines for Warhammer 40,000 – Video Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey. When thinning Agrax Earthshade, Speedpaint Medium does a good job, even if the transition from light to dark can be a bit abrupt, as you can see on the shoulder armour. As the name suggests, Speedpaint Medium lends itself very well for thinning Speedpaint and achieves probably the best result in this regard. Wyldwood Contrast Paint thinned with Speedpaint Medium also looks good, but of course there is the pooling on the leg again, and I particularly liked the result from the diluted Rhinox Hide. Except for the slight pooling on the leg, the dark brown pigments settled very well into the recesses.

And yes, we want a light grey here, it will read to your eyes as white, but the whits should only be used to express the brightest possible areas of a model, if you paint white things with white, how would you then highlight them? Face & Beard – Paint the whole face Cadian Fleshtone. Layer with Kislev Flesh. Highlight with Flayed One Flesh.The other important part with Iron Warriors is that they must be miserable. They have to be down in filthy, broken mud and toxic landscapes and the basing is essential to that. And toxic basing is easy and fun to do, you can really go wild with it. If I remember correctly, I'd never used Scorched Brown for anything other than a base layer for browns. Of course, this may also be because my style and skill level has changed over the years, as much as it does the change in shade. Mix a drop of Ultramarine’s blue in with 3 or 4 drops of Duraluminium. We don’t want the metal areas to look obviously blue, but we want a slight blue tint to it so that the metal areas are in the cool spectrum. As with the white areas above, this will add more contrast. The mix should not look to be blue, just ca colder metal colour in general. Smear that shit everywhere with a brush you don’t care much about. It is good to work in sections so you don’t get paint all over your hands as much.

Aaaaaaannnnd you’re done! All in all, this took me about six hours of actual work. The longest steps are waiting for the varnish and oil to cure and fully dry. You can make mistakes and still come out with a great looking model. That’s the best gift Nurgle can give. I’ve found that I enjoy the look of weathering and grime, the more layers are added. It gives it more depth and is generally more interesting to look at. Hair Spray Weathering – Kevin Genson And here is the result: The diluted Agrax Earthshade and Dark Wood Speedpaint went nicely into the recesses, the transitions from dark to light are even, though we see a minor coffee staining effect. With thinned Wyldwood, it’s noticeable that Glaze Medium makes the Contrast paint very matt, and the pooling is also prominent. The diluted Rhinox Hide has clearly lost a lot of its colour and looks very pastel and milky. Don’t worry if you make any mistakes. Just let it dry and tidy up with Russ Grey. Step 7 – Apply Edge Highlights The scratches and chips are done by painting an area with Rhinox Hide and then painting Ironbreaker on top. Be sure to leave Rhinox Hide showing around the silver to give the impression of worn paint. Next up, we’re going to paint the face. If you’re using an airbrush, you’ll need to make sure all the areas of the figure you don’t want to get flesh colours on are covered up.Contrast Medium is my S-tier, the soft transitions and all-around capabilities have really convinced me. However, at 26 Euro Cents per ml, it is also the most expensive product. A good alternative is Speedpaint Medium, especially of course in combination with Speedpaints from The Army Painter. It is often used to paint the armor and weapons of soldiers and warriors, giving them a sense of rugged durability and strength. The colour is bright enough to have plenty of pop and the consistency helps it flow into places where water would naturally accumulate and cause rust. Having to gradually build up layers of thin, translucent paint helps avoid going too far, making it very beginner-friendly if you're learning how to paint miniatures.