It’s probably not the film to shoot if you’re going for some dramatic Daido Moriyama-style work. I did get one shot – the first one below – with heavier contrast but that was really because of the light and shadows of the scene.

ZoomConsultations/ Mentor– Not sure what camera or lens to buy or need help with your photography? Act today and book a 1:1 Zoom call! Kentmere Pan 100 & Kentmere Pan 400 are not considered to be ‘professional’ film, but can still produce professional level results. We shot three rolls of each to get a feel for Ilford’s newest, budget friendly 120. So what were your results? Does this test change anything for you? Has it sparked your interest in a new film? I’d love to hear about it in the comments? Whether you like the results you get from shooting street photography with Kentmere 400 will come down to personal taste, and I’m certainly not unhappy with how mine turned out. The film is also available, but can be hard to find in rolls of 120 film. This is a great option to have if you are shooting medium format.The loading process can be done with a daylight changing bag or dark room, and daylight film loader. I developed the film myself with Ilford DDX. I followed the one shot development instructions. I did not push or pull the film during the developing process. There are development instructions to push Kentmere 400 two stops.

Despite the fogging, apparently this article’s main comparisons — Kentmere vs equivalent ORWO films — worked to a certain extent. I don’t develop my own film so cannot speak from experience on that in this section. However, according to Harman, Kentmere ‘can be processed in a wide range of different developers using spiral tanks, deep tanks and automatic processors’.From how I developed this film I would say the film performed better under exposed vs. over exposed. You can decide for yourself from the images above. I don’t think I lost too much highlight detail but the shadow performance was particularly impressive. Film shot at box speed then pushed in developing? ILFOTEC HC is a highly concentrated developer that is diluted to use. This developer offers fine grain and good sharpness.

The first t-grain film we’ll discuss is Kodak T-MAX and Lady Gray (which is the same film). This film is very linear, tonally. It has very fine grain. The T-grain emulsion, as I mentioned, high sharpness and very high-edged detail. T-MAX is a great choice if you don’t like grain. The T-MAX base has a pink tint to it. Like Rollei Retro, T-MAX is also extremely curly upon drying but is also currently fairly affordable at .15 per frame. I wanted to go into this experience with an open mind – not that I was particularly worried for any reason. I don’t mind grain in my images, and I know the exposure latitude would give me a very different feel to my images than I’m used to from my “usual” film – Delta 400. Ilford’s Kentmere Pan 100 & 400, have always yielded surprisingly good results considering how affordable they are. But, because Ilford offers many reasonably priced professional grade options, both Kentmere Pan 100& Kentmere Pan 400 are often overlooked. To get the best results, fresh film that is not expired should be used. Film should also avoid being stored in hot temperatures, that can be found in large distribution centers.Again though, Harman’s Simon Galley said this wasn’t the case in this forum post, assuring us that “Kentmere film is absolutely brand new, 2 new emulsions, 35mm only, at a competitive price, it is not a ‘rebadged’ Ilford film, I think I have stated many times we do not supply private label even to a brand we own”. More and more film rebranders using “a European emulsion” that always stays unnamed to coat their films. Fotoimpex clearly states that Kentmere / Fotoimpex CHM / Rollei RPX / Agfaphoto APX are basically the same film. Absolutely minimal digital corrections were made for the minimally fogged UN54 vs Kentmere 100. A bit more corrections were needed on the really fogged N74 plus. Below you will find 1200px versions of my digitisations (entire frame, resized from the original appx. 6,000x4000px TIFFs) as well as 100% crops at 1200px wide. Due to its higher iso and ability to be pushed, this film is ideal for lower light. It also comes in handy for high contrast scenes because its high exposure latitude and lower contrast helps retain shadow and highlight detail in very high contrast scenes.

Dilution 1+1 does not offer this speed increase but gives fine grain negatives with full film speed. ILFOTEC HC Developer That was until Harman Technology Ltd, the company behind Ilford Photo, acquired them and moved production of the paper to Ilford’s own factory.At the price it sells for, it’s a perfectly serviceable option for students and hobbyists, which I imagine was part of Harman’s motivation to produce it alongside the more expensive Ilford range. According to Harman themselves, it has ‘a broad tonal range along with a wide exposure latitude’, although that comes across like something all film manufacturers say. We’ll conclude with two films which are called T-grain films. Up until this point, we’ve been talking about classic or cubic grain structure. But a more modern development in film photography has been the t-grain emulsions. Without getting very technical (as I’m already outside of my comfort zone in this guide without delving into the science) I’ll just say that T-grain film is uniform in its grain characteristics. It allows for grain which is more predictable, more even, and also a lot less obvious than the classic or cubic grains of the other films we’ve been discussing, so far. T-grain is often compared to digital. It’s preferred by those who don’t like the grainy characteristics of most film. T-grain films are also more sensitive to variations in developer temperature, time, dilution, agitation etc. They are going to be less forgiving than classic films.