The voltage of your USB-PD charger is not quite as important here, as the charger can support 9V, 12V, or 15V (you don’t need to match the Nintendo 15V 2.

If you’re open to using other third-party accessories then you’ll probably be comfortable with a Safe or higher safety rating. I don't mean to be rude, but I'm kind of surprised that nobody has said that the switch only takes 5 volts and 2. The replacement Nintendo Switch Charger comes with a long, 6-foot cable, so you can easily reach your gaming console even when it's plugged into an outlet that's not immediately next to you. switch power built smart PD IC chip provides the over-charging protection, over-voltage protection, over-current protection, short-circuit protection. That 15v will be stepped down in the Switch and/or Dock to 5v where the track lengths are short and its easy to run extra tracks to different components.

For the first time, consumers aren’t tied down to one-off Nintendo charging connectors (between the original Nintendo DS, the Nintendo DS Lite, and the Nintendo DSi… there were three different charging connectors across six years). almost never a thing, but let's take a data cable instead like you mention, for using the phone as a modem. This guide could not have been possible without the significant discussion, input, and feedback of many, particularly PHo, JH, /u/bluaki, /u/deetari, and others.

But the official charger with PD can charge super fast while playing Zelda, and that's why you should want PD.

However if you do want to find a charger that will charge while playing, Nintendo probably has the best solution since most car ports are only 1-2.

First off - my bad, I mentioned the Moto G6 above, but I actually have a G8 (the G6 was my previous phone). The answer here might be “your phone doesn’t have that capability”, but the fact that you have to dive into the data sheets of everything involved including all of the cabling just to figure out what the hell the outcome is supposed to be versus the observed outcome is all completely absurd.But since USB3 has variable voltage levels, there must be some negotiation and setting of voltage levels on a per-device basis. The risk is that many cheap PSUs lie about their capabilities and/or are completely out of specification. For the sake of transparency, I’ll include any odd exceptions or edge cases here, and update this section as we learn about more. party docks fried Switches because of shit power management sending more voltage than the Switch needed.

Nintendo now features the USB Type-C (“USB-C”) connector on the Switch itself, the Switch dock, and in various accessories like the Pro Controller and Charging Grip. The new Switch and Switch Lite both have improved power usage and draw compared to the original Switch. You may also be able to bring up to two power banks up to 160Wh or 43,243mAh, but you need the airline’s approval. The people reverse engineering the dock even suggested that the Switch uses a variation of USB-PD that doesn't meet the official specification. During testing the original Switch would turn on its fan, as it was hotting due to a larger power draw.The Switch has a non-inverting buck/boost charging circuit so it should be able to charge off of most PD supplies (and a little slowly from a basic 15W USB-C adapter). actually the deal with USB C power supplies on startup is considerably more complicated than that, and while they start at 5V the 900 mA is usually not the right current value. Efficiency is an argument, certainly, if you're living on solar cells and batteries you would not want to invert 12V up to 120V just to drop it back down again with a USB-C AC adapter :-) .